印尼记遊（十三）
Travelogue in Indonesia 13

四月十五日昨晚由下半夜起就未曾合眼，今晨一早就得起來赶路程， 所以神思未免恍惚，为了使精神振作一点，一早就去沖涼， 七时就发轫了。我们先到泗水南面的宛诺克罗慕 Wonokromo 去参观动物园，在动物园吃过早点，李泽恭先生已为我们购妥⻔票，九时入场，蒙李君为我们一一介绍。

泗水动物园是荷人柯尔美於一九一六年所创建的，为目前东南亞最大的动物园，占地约百余英亩，若要一日而窥全貌，是一件很费累的事。园內的各种禽兽，约有一千余头，⻜禽如鹦鹉，孔雀、鹤、凤凰、杜鹃、 鹏、鹰、鸠、鸦雀等。走兽如獅、豹、虎、象，狼、熊。猿猴、猩猩、 河⻢、⻓颈鹿、骆驼、野牛、野豕，獐鹿、穿山甲及各种爬虫类。真可谓搜罗宏富，应有尽有，园內更设有一水族馆，我们步入馆內，只⻅兩旁均以玻璃砌成，中灌以流动的水，上通日光，分成数十格，每格置各种魚类十尾，其设置与新加坡水族馆相同，但规模之大，是新加坡水族馆所不及的。其中奇鳞异甲多至千余种。我最感兴趣的是那种颜色鲜丽，五彩灿目的扁身魚。它的学名已不复记忆，但是，牠那惹人憐爱的娇憨姿态，却留给我以深刻的印象。其他还有许多奇形怪状魚类，那美丽的颜色，繁杂的名目，真是笔难胜述的。我们在此游览了一点多种，仅能走⻢看花，一瞥既过。据说此园因管理不得怯，动物死亡颇多，唯幸各国陆续赠送补充，反觉时时都有新客光临呢！

十时半至李君府上，拜访李太太，这是一栋高贵的住宅，建筑古典堂皇，室內古玩，古画，陈列得古色古香。李太太极和蔼可亲，待人诚恳温厚。在书房中看到了李公子的作品，真是不愧书香⻔第！兩天来，承蒙李君照料周至，附志於此，以伸谢谊 !

十一时半，离开李府，同行者多了一位温君，旅途上方便得多了。二时，抵达⻢带温，Madium 。已觉枵腹雷鸣，乃在此用过午膳再续程。其时，酷日当空，炎暑逼人，挥汗不迭复加以⻋中颠簸，真是疲苦万状！四时，⻋子已抵达实琅干山麓，倏忽间，天气转阴，山顶乌云弥漫；一团团的雨云竟像破棉絮般地集拢过来。太阳已失去了它刚才的淫威，气候骤变，正感涼⻛拂拂，身心一舒之际，倾盆大雨忽从上天而降。这一来，三辆⻋子都无法前行了。我们无聊地枯坐在⻋厢里，忽而看⻅庆光在后面的⻋廂里吃着东⻄，他发现我正在注望着他，就翘起大姆指向我一扬！这位老兄真会捞东⻄吃，在这么大的雨中，也有办法张罗到食物，坐在⻋上大享其口福。子平第一个为之心动，冒雨走过去了。等他回來时，已带来了一股浓烈的榴莲香味，并连声赞好。他说：「这儿的榴莲，真是好到极点，堪称东南亞第一！······ 。」

我一闻到这股榴莲味，嘴里的馋涎已禁不住一湧而上，再经他这么加強夸张一番，我更是馋涎异地欲滴、禁不住也打开了⻋⻔，冒雨冲出去一试了。这么大的一個榴莲，才卖印尼币二十盾我吃了一个又一个······味真隽永，直到肚子已填得无法下咽才罢止。想不到冒雨吃榴莲，竟是这么有趣的事。

雨势渐弱了，我们就在丝丝的细雨中，驱⻋上山。⻋辆爬不上去，只好大伙兒下⻋来推，雨后路滑，⻋行速度甚慢，到旅馆时已是五点了。天仍下着霏霏细雨，空气涼冷，映入眼廉的是半山云雨的远山，烟云朦胧的农居，烟雨迷蒙的湖水。单是这种雨中山景已让人忘了⻋路途颠簸之苦，使人忘了适才在雨中帮着推⻋之劳了。大家按上了外衣，仍然嫌冷。想起了午间的高热，几疑此身非复在人间。

旅舍內的设备⻬全，洁净而精致，还有壁炉的装置，可供旅客生火取暖。每室设床位二，我们占用了六间。（这是温君预先订下来的，否则不易租到。）房金按人计算，一宿两餐一早点，每人一百五十盾，可谓便宜之至！我们匆匆地把行李卸作后，就出去作画了！

其时已云收天霄，在这骤雨方过还晴的情境之下，遥望烟云飛绕，又是另一番景象呢！我们下榻的旅馆是山顶上，对面的威里斯山峰(Hill of Willlys)是那么轻描淡写的在山谷中若隐若现，有点像庐山不⻅真面目的情态，又如一位玉立在珠帘后的绝代美人。近山统是层层叠叠、葱葱绿绿的梯田，从山谷起一直到山腰，下望是一泓温柔娴静的湖水，呈现着娇憨的美态。环湖是一帶蜿蜓的⻢路，更近处是离离落落的羊齿树，花卉更是灿如云锦，明艳夺目。纵然你不是米勒 Millet 与卢秀 Rouseau 这一派的画家，也会赞叹而神往的！这里的景致不仅有生命力的表现，却更加上优柔秀美而有变化。其地清涼高夐，时觉衣单，环境幽静而疏朗，⻢来亚的避暑胜地如金⻢伦、福隆港，都未能及其万一！

是时，铜盘般大的一轮夕阳，已渐渐地投向群山的怀抱里去了。那夕阳余晖，幻彩灿烂，倒映湖中，乃成奇彩丽景，益复可观！！渐而烟霭迷离，暮色苍茫了。一颗颗的小星，已通过蓝色的天空在闪烁了。我们赶紧收拾画具，回到旅馆去用晚餐。这是一顿极其丰盛的餐食，菜肴之佳，为巴厘旅馆所不及。庆光在玛琅花了七百盾买来的一瓶白兰地酒，这时正好派上用场了。大家在一起享受，每人半杯白兰地酒，满桌的烧鸭、炸鸡、烤虾，在这寒泠的山居里，据案大嚼，其乐何似！

当我们吃得既饱又醉的时候，子平来了。他看⻅我们就大惊地叫嚷道：「哎呀！不得了！这下子你们全都要死了！」我们面面相觑，真感到莫名其妙。他说：「你们刚才吃了榴莲，现在还要喝白兰地酒，豈不是死定了······」
啊！这下子我们才记起来了，心里未免有点着慌，可是既已吃到肚里去，生死也只好听其自然。约莫过了半小时之后，並沒有什么不适的感觉，心里才觉稍安。庆光却说⻛凉话了：「 我倒觉得蛮舒服呀！榴莲配酒，倒也不错，天气冷，刚刚好！」

晚间气温约五十余度，穿了绒线衣，盖了几重毛毯。尚不觉有暖意，子平已冷得齿战股栗不能自持。 爬起来把所有带来的背心，衬衫全都穿上，还是感到寒栗不可支。於是又再爬起来，索性把大衣也穿上，领带也结上了。本来是个柳枝似地廋个子，现在即刻丰满起来了。半夜穿⻄装，打领结，真是闻所未闻，但事实却是如此，一点也不夸张形容。可是，他虽穿了那么多衣著，依然发着抖不能入寐， 於是又爬下床来收拾行李。结果，他发觉那三个花了五千余盾，由巴厘带来的大古盘，己打破兩个， 这一气却气出了滿头汗，气呼呼地躺在床上 ，连被也不必盖，却安静地睡着了。我也因此得到安宁、 看着时钟，已是凌晨三时。 (十三)

On April 15th, I didn't close my eyes from late last night, as I had to get up early this morning to embark on a journey. Consequently, my mind was a bit foggy. To refresh myself, I took a shower early in the morning and started the day at 7 o'clock. We first went to visit the Wonokromo Zoo to the south of Surabaya. After having breakfast at the zoo, Mr. Li Zegong had already purchased tickets for us, and we entered at 9 o'clock. Mr. Li introduced us to everything one by one.

The Surabaya Zoo was established by the Dutchman Cornelis Hocken in 1916 and was the largest zoo in Southeast Asia at that time. It covered an area of over a hundred acres, and trying to see everything in one day was quite exhausting. The zoo housed more than a thousand different birds and animals, including parrots, peacocks, cranes, phoenixes, cuckoos, eagles, doves, crows, and more. There were also lions, leopards, tigers, elephants, wolves, bears, gibbons, orangutans, hippos, giraffes, camels, wild buffalo, wild boars, deer, pangolins, and various reptiles. It truly had a vast collection of animals and creatures, and there was even an aquarium with a wide variety of fish. As we entered the aquarium, I noticed that both sides were made of glass, with flowing water in the middle, allowing in natural light. The tanks were divided into dozens of sections, each housing ten fish of different species. The setup was similar to the aquarium in Singapore, but the scale was even grander than Singapore's. There were over a thousand species of exotic fish, but I no longer remember their scientific names. However, the charming and adorable mannerisms of these fish left a deep impression on me, especially the colorful, vibrant flat-bodied fish. There were many other peculiar and colorful fish, each with complex names that were difficult to describe. We only had a limited time to explore, so we could only glance at them briefly. It was said that many animals died in the zoo due to poor management, but fortunately, various countries continued to send replacements, ensuring that there were always new arrivals.

At half-past ten, we arrived at Mr. Li's residence and paid a visit to Mrs. Li. It was a noble mansion with a classical and majestic architecture, filled with antiques and ancient paintings, creating an atmosphere of classical elegance. Mrs. Li was very kind and hospitable, treating us with sincerity and warmth. In the study, I saw the works of Mr. Li's son, who truly lived up to the reputation of a scholar. Over the past two days, we were greatly indebted to Mr. Li for his thoughtful care, and I extend my sincere thanks!

At half-past eleven, we left Mr. Li's house, and we were joined by Mr. Wen, which made our journey more convenient. By two o'clock, we arrived in Madium, feeling hungry, so we stopped here for lunch before continuing our journey. The sun was scorching, and the heat was unbearable. Sweating profusely, combined with the bumpy ride, made it an exhausting experience. By four o'clock, our vehicles reached the foot of Mount Slamet. Suddenly, the weather turned cloudy, and dark clouds gathered at the mountaintop. The sun had lost its intensity, and the temperature dropped. It felt refreshing as a cool breeze blew, and just as we were starting to relax, a torrential downpour came from the sky. With this sudden change in weather, none of our three vehicles could continue. We sat bored in the carriages, and at one point, I saw Keng Kwang eating something in the carriage behind us. He noticed me watching him and raised his thumb in my direction. This fellow knew how to procure food even in such heavy rain, and he savored it luxuriously while sitting in the carriage. Tze Peng was the first to be tempted and braved the rain to go and check it out. When he returned, he brought with him the strong aroma of durian and couldn't stop praising it. He said, "The durians here are incredibly good, perhaps the best in Southeast Asia!"

As soon as I smelled the durian aroma, my mouth watered uncontrollably. After Tze Peng's enthusiastic description, I couldn't resist and also opened the carriage door to venture out in the rain and try it for myself. These durians were huge, and they were only selling for twenty Indonesian rupiahs each. I kept eating one after another, savoring their enduring flavor until I couldn't eat anymore. Who would have thought that eating durian in the rain would be such an interesting experience!

The rain gradually subsided, so we started our ascent up the mountain in the drizzling rain. The vehicles couldn't make it up, so we had to get out and push together. The road was slippery after the rain, so the journey was slow, and it was already 5 o'clock when we reached the hotel. The sky was still drizzling, the air was cool, and what met our eyes were the mist-covered distant mountains, the hazy rural houses, and the foggy lake. Just the sight of this mountain scenery in the rain made us forget the hardships of the bumpy road and the effort we put into pushing the vehicles in the rain. We put on our outerwear, but we still felt chilly. Remembering the scorching heat of noon, we couldn't help but wonder if we were still on the same Earth.

The hotel's facilities were top-notch, clean, and elegant, with a fireplace for guests to light and warm up. Each room had two beds, and we occupied six rooms (Mr. Wen had made reservations in advance; otherwise, it would have been difficult to get a room). The room rate, including two meals and breakfast, was only 150 rupiahs per person, incredibly affordable! After quickly unloading our luggage, we went out to paint!

By then, the clouds had cleared, and with the rain just passed and the sky turning sunny, the landscape took on a whole new appearance! The hotel we stayed in was on the mountaintop, and the Hill of Willlys on the opposite side seemed to hide in the valley, somewhat like the mysterious charm of Mount Lu. It was like a peerless beauty standing behind a pearl curtain. The terraced fields on the nearby mountains were lush and green, extending from the valley to the mountain slopes. Looking down, there was a gentle and tranquil lake, presenting a charming beauty. A winding road circled the lake, and closer still were the fern trees, while the flowers were vibrant and dazzling. Even if you are not a painter like Millet or Rousseau, you would be amazed and enchanted! The scenery here not only expressed vitality but also had an elegant and changing beauty. The air was cool and refreshing, the surroundings were quiet and clear, surpassing even popular Southeast Asian summer resorts like Genting Highlands and Pulau Ubin!

At that time, the large copper-like sun was gradually setting behind the mountains. The residual light from the setting sun created a spectacular and colorful reflection in the lake, which was truly a sight to behold! As the mist veiled the surroundings, dusk set in, and small stars began to twinkle in the blue sky. We quickly packed up our painting equipment and returned to the hotel for dinner. It was an incredibly sumptuous meal, with delicious dishes surpassing those in Bali's hotels. Keng Kwang had bought a bottle of brandy for 700 rupiahs in Malang, and it came in handy now. We all enjoyed it together, each having half a glass of brandy, with a table full of roast duck, fried chicken, grilled shrimp, in this chilly mountain retreat, indulging in a feast. The joy was beyond words!

When we were full and a little tipsy, the Peng arrived. He looked at us in surprise and exclaimed, "Oh my! You guys are in big trouble now!" We exchanged puzzled glances, wondering what he meant. He continued, "You just ate durian, and now you're drinking brandy. You're doomed!" Ah, it was only then that we remembered, and we couldn't help feeling a bit uneasy. But since we had already eaten it, there was nothing we could do but let nature take its course. After about half an hour, we didn't feel any discomfort, and our hearts began to settle. Keng Kwang even quipped, "I actually feel quite comfortable! Durian with brandy isn't bad, especially in this cold weather!"

The nighttime temperature was around 50 degrees, and despite wearing a sweater and several layers of blankets, it didn't feel warm at all. Tze Peng, on the other hand, was shivering uncontrollably, teeth chattering. He got up and put on all the undershirts and shirts he had brought, but he still couldn't stop shivering. So, he got up again and decided to put on his coat and tie. What was originally a slender figure suddenly became quite plump. Wearing Western attire and tying a necktie at midnight was truly an unprecedented experience, but it was the reality. However, despite wearing so much clothing, he was still shaking and couldn't fall asleep. So, he got out of bed again to pack his luggage. As a result, he discovered that three of the large antique plates brought from Bali, costing over 5,000 rupiahs, had been broken. He was so angry that he broke out in a sweat and lay quietly in bed, not bothering to cover himself with a blanket, and eventually fell asleep. I, too, found some peace, watching the clock, and it was already 3 in the morning.