考辇公园之遊
A Visit to Kao Niew Park
在这素有「白象王国」之称的泰国首都--曼谷，盘桓了将近一周的时间，量尽了市内所有的马路，还到过邻近的大城、龙仔厝、吞武里与暖武里······等府。我们不但不曾看见过一头被泰国佛教徒视为神明的珍贵白象，甚至连普通的灰象、黑象，都不能获得一瞥之缘。所以在私心里不禁因此而激扬起一阵歉然之感！
“大家可有放舟湖上，遨游碧波的兴趣吗？”当我们疲于取景入画之余，向导者就提供了这意见。可是大家的反应是摇摇头。
“你们是否有兴趣去享受一下骑象的闲适风味？”
“哦······有这样的玩意儿？好哇！在哪里？这下子可引起我们浓厚的兴趣了。本来我们就以进入「白象王国」未能见到象，而引为此行的憾事。现在不但可以看象，甚而更可以骑象，怎不令我们欣喜若狂呢？
“好！我们就到考辇公园去！”
驱车在公路疾驰了约半小时，又再经过了日前参观过的白云寺不远处，就到达考辇公园的园址了。每人花5铢钱买了票，才能进入园内游览。
这个范围广大，布置西洋画的考辇公园，华人称之为皇家公园。位在新王宫的左邻，原属皇族的御花园。后来拉玛五世王朱拉隆功才徇依民情，辟建为曼谷市民的公共游乐场所。园中设有儿童游乐场，动物园。每逢周日，市民都喜欢至此舒活一下疲态的筋骨，呼吸一口清新的空气，振奋一下劳累的精神，任由他们那紧张的神经，麻木的头脑，烦扰的心情，得以悠游自在地浃化在这恬静、安详、幽美的园林景色中，海阔天空地大叹其无为之乐！
我们沿着平坦广阔的公园马路漫步浏览着，但见花丛草地都修剪得非常整齐。园中除丘陵、假山、丛林、喷泉之外，还有一个曲形的大湖。湖上有一小岛，栽植了许多苍翠的树木和花草，盛开着姹紫嫣红的花朵，岛中央矗立着一座小钟楼。在钟楼的右侧的青翠树丛中，突出一角的红檐，与蔚蓝的天空、碧澄的湖水相辉映，真可谓清极秀极！这些自然的景物，再加上人工的布置，倒也成了几个美好的角度，而引人入胜！
在湖上泛舟，已成为考辇公园游人最喜爱的节目。你只要费几铢钱，就可以租到一叶扁舟，在那碧绿明净的心湖荡漾，迎着拂面的清风，欣赏着湖上的旖旎风光，和湖边美景，也别具一番情趣啊！在这里还有一种很别致的小游艇，只可供两人同坐。小艇的两旁或后面装置了一副宛如十九世纪欧洲的轮船推进器，游人只要踩动车链上的车踏，就可以激起四溅的水花，赛似鱼龙戏水般地在湖面上遨游了。假使你带有素心人同住的话，不妨在此泛轻舟，踏游碧波，包你们备觉亲切，其乐融融！
园中依着地势的高低，鸠建了一个相当规模的动物园。同时按照各种动物本身所习惯的生活环境，来安置它们的居处。园中所豢养的各种水陆的动物，搜罗繁多。在量的方面来说，却是比泗水动物园完善得多了！这儿的景物不宜于入画面，但是却可以上镜头那几位有带相机的伙伴，都大大的活动了一番！凡举潜伏在在小河中的长约五尺六的泰国鳄鱼，往来嬉游于假山洞附近的凶猛老虎、狰狞的狮豹、站在危崖上的驯鹿山羊和麋鹿，还有那些野性难驯的班马······都一一被摄入了镜头。瑞福带了两架相机来，他周游了全园，到处「X景」。
“瑞福，这些不能入画面的题材，你摄取了这么多干什么？”我真感到奇怪而发问。
“我的孩子喜欢，拍这些照片回去给他们看看，好让他们高兴！”啊！他真的是一位标准的父亲，我真是自愧不如呢！就在说完这句话的当儿，他又持着相机，瞄准一只庞然大物的河马，正想把它摄入镜头。不知为什么那只河马突然张开血盆似的大口，迎前冲上来。瑞福给它这一吓，连忙往后倒退两步，砰然的一声，手上那架崭新的照相机，就在坚硬的石栏上碰坏了。
在这动物园里，还有大象供人坐骑。凡欲骑坐大象者需续付五铢给童子军--因为这些玩意儿，多为孩童所喜爱，所以这种工作就由童子军负责管理了--然后由木梯走上一个与象背上座位齐高的特制木架，那训象者就骑在象颈上，把大象驱靠台架边，让骑象者坐落在那象背上有如三人椅一般的座位上去。这种特制的座椅，可容纳三个乘客，小孩则可容纳六个。坐妥之后，大象也慢慢的离开木架，慢条斯理大有绅士之风度，绕着曲折的园径而行。大约是十分钟后，再回返原地，让乘骑者由木梯而下。我们都感到新奇，认为是破题儿的第一遭，所以大家都争着骑在象背上，神气十足地让同伴替自己拍摄一张「象上英雄」的英武姿态，以备将来回星之后，可以向朋友大大的夸耀一番，而且「有相为证」谁敢说我们「车大炮」呢？
在动物园附近，那柔软得有如床褥一般的绿茵上，矗立着许多葱郁苍翠的灌木--这本是平常而又平常公园景色，不过在这考辇公园里，却是一大特点，给予异地的游客带回以及深刻的印象。原来这些极普通的灌木树丛，都被公园中的当事人，施以巧思妙手的剪饰工夫。他们将些枝桠修剪成各种的大佛像，大恐龙以及种种惹人注意的动物形态，远看确是足以乱真。这岂不是独出心裁妙绝天工的匠心杰作吗？
我沿着湖畔漫步而行，那临湖的亭台楼榭，河流间的平桥，拱桥都别具一种情趣。尤其是在那枝叶交萦的绿树荫下，到处都设有座椅，最宜于游人捉膝谈心，但见一对对的情侣，都情话绵绵的在此互诉心曲，不过，像星洲各公园中所见的那种旁若无人的大胆作风，在这里是看不到的。这时乐队在音乐台上演奏异国的乐曲，那高低抑扬的音调，颇赢得不少游客的会心微笑。我拣了一个好座位，叫来了一杯浓咖啡，就在湖畔饮憩。我慢慢的欣赏着园中的优美景致，尽情的享受着那悠闲自得的无为之乐！好风景总宜乎慢慢的欣赏啊！像这样的闲情逸致人生又能得有几回呢？
After spending nearly a week in the Thai capital, Bangkok, often referred to as the "Kingdom of the White Elephant," exploring the city's streets and even venturing to nearby provinces like Ayutthaya, Bang Pa-In, Thonburi, and Nakhon Pathom, we still had not laid eyes on the precious white elephants considered sacred by Thai Buddhists. We hadn't even caught a glimpse of common gray or black elephants. This left us with a sense of regret, given that our visit was originally motivated by the desire to see elephants, which are such a significant part of Thailand's culture and history.
"Do any of you have an interest in boating on the lake and enjoying the serene waters?" our guide asked, sensing our disappointment. However, we all shook our heads.
"Do you have any interest in experiencing the leisurely pleasure of riding elephants?"
"Oh, is that possible? Where can we do that? Now you've piqued our interest. We came to the 'Kingdom of the White Elephant' hoping to see elephants, and now, not only can we see them but also ride them. How exciting!"
"Great! Let's head to Kao Niew Park!"
We drove for about half an hour along the highway, passing by the White Cloud Temple, which we had visited earlier. Finally, we arrived at Kao Niew Park. Each of us paid five baht for admission to the park.
Kao Niew Park, known to the Chinese as the Royal Park, is a vast and well-maintained park with a Western-style layout. It originally served as a royal garden for the monarchy, located just to the left of the new palace. Later, King Rama V, also known as King Chulalongkorn, decided to open it as a public amusement park for the citizens of Bangkok. The park features a children's playground, a zoo, and is a popular spot for locals to relax on Sundays, rejuvenating their tired bodies, breathing in the fresh air, and revitalizing their spirits. In this tranquil and beautiful garden, people find solace and escape from their everyday stresses, allowing their nerves to relax and their minds to wander freely.
As we strolled along the park's well-maintained pathways, we noticed the neatly trimmed flowerbeds and lawns. The park was adorned with hills, artificial rock formations, lush vegetation, and fountains. A meandering lake with a small island at its center added to the park's charm. The island was adorned with numerous lush trees and flowers in full bloom, surrounded by a tranquil pond. In the center of the island stood a small clock tower. The contrast between the red roof of the tower, the blue sky, and the clear lake created a picturesque scene. The park's natural beauty, combined with its well-thought-out design, made it a delightful place to explore from various angles.
Boating on the lake had become the favorite activity for visitors to Kao Niew Park. For just a few baht, you could rent a flat-bottomed boat and glide across the clear waters of the heart-shaped lake. The gentle breeze, serene waters, and scenic views made it a relaxing experience. There was also a unique type of small rowboat designed for two people. These boats had paddlewheel-style propellers on either side or at the back, resembling 19th-century European paddle steamers. Visitors could pedal the boat using a foot pedal, creating splashes of water as they cruised across the lake, providing a sense of playfulness reminiscent of fish frolicking in water. If you were accompanied by a loved one, this boat ride offered a romantic and enjoyable experience.
The park housed a sizable zoo with a variety of land and aquatic animals, making it a comprehensive collection compared to other zoos. While these animal scenes were not suitable for painting, they were perfect for our friends who had cameras. They eagerly captured images of everything, from crocodiles lurking in the river to fierce tigers, leopards, deer, and various other animals perched on cliffs. Their camera shutters clicked continuously.
"Rufus, why are you taking so many pictures of subjects that won't be part of your paintings?" I asked in genuine curiosity.
"My children love them. I'll show them these photos when I get back so they can enjoy them!" Rufus replied. He was indeed a doting father. I couldn't help but feel a pang of guilt. While we were chatting, he aimed his camera at a massive hippopotamus. Suddenly, the hippo opened its huge mouth and charged toward him. Startled, Rufus quickly stepped back but accidentally collided with a stone railing. There was a loud crash, and his brand-new camera was damaged.
The park also offered elephant rides. To ride an elephant, you needed to pay an additional five baht to the Boy Scouts who managed this activity. As we approached the platform, we noticed a specially designed wooden structure that was level with the elephant's back. The mahout (elephant handler) climbed onto the elephant's neck, positioning it next to the platform so that passengers could easily board. This unique seating arrangement accommodated three passengers, while children could fit six. Once seated, the elephant slowly moved away from the platform, displaying a gentlemanly demeanor, strolling along the winding paths of the park. After about ten minutes, it returned to the original spot, allowing passengers to disembark via a wooden ladder. We found the experience fascinating, as it was our first time riding an elephant, and we all wanted to capture the moment. We took turns riding on the elephant's back, striking heroic poses for our friends to photograph. We imagined ourselves as daring adventurers, ready to regale our friends with stories and show them the photographic evidence of our remarkable journey.
Near the zoo, the park featured beautifully trimmed bushes and trees, transforming ordinary greenery into artistic sculptures. The gardeners had skillfully shaped the shrubs and branches into various forms, resembling large Buddhas, fearsome dinosaurs, and other eye-catching animal shapes. From a distance, they appeared almost lifelike. This attention to detail showcased the creative talent of the park's staff, leaving a lasting impression on visitors.
I continued my leisurely stroll along the lakeside, enjoying the park's delightful features. The pavilions, towers, and bridges near the lake were particularly charming. Under the shade of the leafy trees, there were benches for visitors to sit and converse. Couples could be seen whispering sweet nothings to each other, and the atmosphere was filled with laughter and happiness. Unlike the audacious displays of affection sometimes seen in Singaporean parks, this Thai park exuded a more reserved and tranquil ambiance. A band played foreign music on a nearby stage, and the melodious tunes brought smiles to many visitors' faces. I found a comfortable spot, ordered a cup of strong coffee, and savored the moment by the lake. I leisurely admired the park's exquisite scenery, savoring the carefree joy of doing nothing. The best way to appreciate such beautiful scenery is to take it all in slowly. How many opportunities in life will allow us to experience such leisure and serenity?