漫话清迈
A Chat About Chiang Mai
清迈是泰国最大的府治。
她有现代化的文明都市，也有落后民族的村落﹒'她有瑰丽宏伟的建筑物，也有破旧倾塌的古迹;她有
纤丽精巧的雕刻品和传统样式的丝织物，还有清爽涼快的气候和富具天然的名山胜水 ······。这些，就足以造成清迈成为名闻遐迩的游览胜地了。
果然，清迈给我的第一个印象，是那么的清爽，恬静而幽丽，好像一个端庄稳重的少妇，以一种雍容宁静的风度出现在我的眼前。她婀娜多姿地围绕在群山的环抱中，并赢得了「北方玫瑰」的雅誉。这位美妇的丰姿，大概可以媲美於荷马笔下的海伦后吧 ? 不然，为什么她从十六世纪起，便成为暹、缅兩国的爭夺焦点呢 ? 她经过了几许的沧桑和苦难，直至一七七四年，郑王率师驱逐缅甸太守出境
之后，才把这位风华绝代的佳人，重揽入泰国的怀抱，并使她保待着原有的荣宠 !
清迈的绮丽风光，不但充满了诗一般的情调，和画一般的意境。她还可以给你带来了一种宁静安详的感觉，也可以给你带来一种贴切溫柔的感情。我的一枝秃笔，真真是无法描摹出她的气韵情致之美的。唯一的办法，就是靠自己慢慢地去领略，才能使心和境產生出交萦互染的意象啊。 在这儿，你就算是在酷暑的正午时分，出门去溜跶，也是感到凉气袭人的。偶而迎面吹來丝丝的涼风，立刻会使你有生活在秋天的季节一般的感受 !
现在让我们在风和日丽的天色之下，沿着婉蜓如帶的湄宾河，给这静美的山城来一番巡礼吧 !
泰国多是浊水河，只有清迈滨河之水是翠秀澄碧的；它好像一条绿缎带，萦系在这位绝代佳人的纤腰上，益增其清丽绝俗之美。这大概又是造物者的匠心杰作吧？不然，为什么会配合得那么调和与完美呢？
在这滨河的两岸，你就可以领略到清迈的市容是要如何的整洁，商业是如何的发达了。不然，她虽然荣为泰北的政治与经济重镇，被列为仅次于曼谷的第二大城市，她却没有那车水马龙的繁荣场面，也没有像那样喧嚣熙攘的市景，更没有大都会的酒色财气和勾心斗角的气氛。她始终是以娴静的态度，柔美的身姿，悠闲自若地接待着你！
滨河的东岸，有高巍的欧洲人教堂，和规模宏大，建筑堂皇的学校，可说是现代文明的代表！如果你看腻了这些现代的建筑物那么，你只要从那哇叻大铁桥（Nanarat Bridge），走过河的西岸，你就可以发现若干充满了佛教色彩的古寺庙。有的已经过重修，是那么的金碧辉煌，有的只剩下百孔千疮的颓壁，及颤巍巍的残柱，苔藓斑驳，古意盎然，这些充满了历史意味的古老风味的留存，就是清迈的一篇足以凭吊的沧桑史啊！面对着这些荒凉的残迹，你会感觉到似乎生活的另一个世纪里，你又怎么不撩起一阵怀古的幽情呢？
在这里市区与街道，虽然给人一种低平的感觉，但是清迈的位置，却是处在海拔一千〇二十三公尺的高原上呵！雄踞在她在西南五十公里的安家山，就是以二千五百七十六公尺的高度，傲视泰国的其他高山的。因地理环境使然，她拥有清佬山、素贴山，夜干瀑布和会缴瀑布等名闻全国的胜景。如果，你沿湄滨河顺流而下，那么，你将会发现两岸的绵长山峦，陡绝削壁，崔巍崖崭，是多么的奇秀峻拔，引人入胜啊！同时，你不难领悟到湄滨河水之所以会请的道理，因为在滨河的两岸，都栽植了的名贵的柚木林，是这潺潺奔流的河水，不致挟带泥浆而下淤！
还有，你千万别小看了这道发源于清佬山谷中的细流，它对泰北的经济价值是难以估计的！远在北线铁路尚未敷设至清迈以前，它就担任了南北交通的要职。现在泰北各府出产的柚木，还得靠滨河的顺流南运呢！明年，然禧大水坝（Yanhee Dam）建筑完成之后，湄滨河将被拦腰截断，上游成为三百公里的天然蓄水湖。这丰沛的水源，仅灌溉之水利，每年就可使泰国增产米谷三十五万吨，发出的电力可达五十六万基罗瓦特，足够供给泰北，泰中三十九府电流之用途。这些数字，已足以说明湄滨河的巨大贡献了！
清迈除了盛产饮誉国际的柚木之外，还有品种佳美的龙眼和维尔尼亚种的烟叶，蔬菜的新鲜与肥美，实是远胜过马来亚的金马伦的。这里，还有一种鲜笋，异常脆嫩清甜，别有一种芬香的滋味，啖之口舌之快，真是「脆嫩之至，美好至极！」我只能这么形容了。
朋友，我不瞒你说，清迈还有泰国著名的美人窝呢！你若有机会亲临其境的话，就会相信这不是无稽之谈，你就会了解一般的游客都认为「到了泰国不去清迈，将是极其遗憾的事！」这句话的含义了！
我们这次的旅行，大概可以称得上圆满吧！可不是吗？我们总算已到达了这个游客向往的胜地来，一睹那「北方玫瑰」的媚人风采！
Chiang Mai - The Northern Rose of Thailand
Chiang Mai is the largest province in Thailand. It is a city that combines modern civilization with remote tribal villages. It boasts splendid and grand architecture alongside ancient ruins. Chiang Mai is a place where you can find delicate carvings, traditional textiles, a cool and refreshing climate, and an abundance of natural beauty in its mountains and waters. All of these factors contribute to Chiang Mai's reputation as a renowned tourist destination.
Indeed, my first impression of Chiang Mai was one of freshness, tranquility, and beauty, like a dignified and graceful lady who appeared before me with an air of composure and serenity. She gracefully nestled among the surrounding mountains and earned the title of the "Northern Rose." This beautiful lady's charm could perhaps rival that of Helen of Troy in Homer's writings. Why else would she have been the focal point of contention between Siam and Burma since the 16th century? She went through many trials and tribulations until 1774 when King Taksin led his troops to drive the Burmese governor out, bringing this unparalleled beauty back into the embrace of Thailand, preserving her former glory.
Chiang Mai's breathtaking scenery not only exudes poetic charm and artistic inspiration but also imparts a sense of tranquility and tenderness. My humble pen is truly unable to capture the beauty of her charm. The only way to truly appreciate it is to take your time and experience it for yourself, allowing your heart and surroundings to create a harmonious image. Here, even in the scorching noon heat, taking a leisurely walk outside feels refreshing. Occasionally, a cool breeze blows in your face, instantly making you feel as if you are in the season of autumn.
Now, let's take a stroll through this tranquil mountain city along the meandering Mae Ping River on this sunny day!
Thailand mostly has murky rivers, but the waters of the Mae Ping River in Chiang Mai are clear and emerald. It resembles a green silk ribbon, gracefully adorning the slender waist of this unparalleled beauty, enhancing her beauty and charm. This must be the work of a masterful creator. Otherwise, why would it blend together so harmoniously and perfectly?
On the banks of this river, you can witness how clean and prosperous Chiang Mai's urban landscape is. Despite being recognized as the political and economic center of Northern Thailand and ranking as the second-largest city after Bangkok, it does not possess the bustling scenes of the metropolis, nor the noise and clamor of a big city. It consistently welcomes you with a gentle demeanor, a graceful figure, and a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere.
On the eastern bank of the river, you'll find towering European-style churches and grand schools, representing modern civilization. However, if you grow tired of these modern structures, you can simply cross the Nanarat Bridge to the western bank of the river, where you will discover several temples imbued with Buddhist color. Some have been lavishly restored, shimmering in golden splendor, while others retain ancient flavors with moss-covered, weathered walls and trembling columns. In the face of these desolate remnants, you may feel as though you have stepped into another century, evoking a sense of nostalgia.
In this city, even if you venture out at the peak of a scorching noon, you will feel a refreshing coolness in the air. Occasionally, a cool breeze greets you, instantly making you feel like you are in the autumn season.
Chiang Mai is located at an elevation of 1,023 meters above sea level, perched atop the majestic Doi Suthep mountain, which rises to a height of 2,576 meters, dominating over other Thai peaks. Due to its geographical location, Chiang Mai boasts attractions like Doi Suthep, Doi Inthanon, and numerous waterfalls, all renowned throughout the country. If you follow the Mae Ping River downstream, you will encounter the vast and impressive mountain ranges on both sides, characterized by their extraordinary beauty, steep cliffs, and jagged peaks. These sights are truly captivating.
Moreover, you should not underestimate the significance of the small stream originating from the valley of Doi Luang. It has played an essential role in Northern Thailand's economy, serving as a vital transportation route long before the Northern Railway Line was extended to Chiang Mai. Even today, the teakwood produced in various provinces of Northern Thailand still relies on the Mae Ping River for transport to the south. Next year, after the construction of the Yanhee Dam, the Mae Ping River will be dammed, creating a 300-kilometer natural reservoir. This abundant water source will not only greatly increase rice production in Thailand by 350,000 tons annually but also generate 560,000 kilowatts of electricity, sufficient to supply the needs of 39 provinces in Northern and Central Thailand. These figures alone illustrate the tremendous contributions of the Mae Ping River.
Chiang Mai is not only famous for its internationally acclaimed teakwood but also for its beautiful longans and Virginia tobacco. The vegetables here are fresh and lush, surpassing even the famous Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. There's a type of fresh bamboo shoot, exceptionally tender, crisp, and sweet, with a unique fragrance. Savoring it is a delightful experience, truly "crispy and tender to the utmost, exquisitely beautiful!"
My friend, I don't want to hide the truth from you—Chiang Mai is also known for its famous beauty spots! If you ever have the opportunity to visit, you will believe that it's not an exaggeration. You'll understand why most travelers say, "A trip to Thailand without visiting Chiang Mai would be a great regret!"
Our trip this time can be considered successful, can't it? We've finally arrived at this coveted destination, to catch a glimpse of the charm of the "Northern Rose.