曼谷素描
Sketches of Bangkok
泰国丛记 -- 曼谷素描 （上）
去年，利用假期的闲暇，在印尼的爪哇与巴厘二岛，顺利地完成了为时三周的短期旅行。游目骋怀之乐，固不待言，增闻广识之益，复不暇计 ；尤其是能短期置身於奇丽的大自然景色中，面接异国的民情风土，祗觉得每个角度都是那么的富有画意，引起了我们浓厚的绘画感兴，竟完成了不少的画幅。同时在旅程中，又可以结交许多志同道合的异国画友、这些，对於我们画人来说，不仅是一件人生的大快事， 同时还是一次丰富的收获呢 ！
今年，我们又再接再励地筹备到北邻的泰国与東埔寨去走一趟。我们并不是要浮光掠影地观览一下大都会的风光，也不是要深入地考察当地的社会状况，祗是取景作画而已。及至旅行上的一切手续办妥之后，我们一团十二人，便於星洲的巴耶黎巴机场，乘搭加鲁打航机飞至曼谷。
经过兩小时半的飞行，我们乘搭的加魯打航机 ，便在曼谷的廊曼机场降落了。这是一个规模宏大，完全现代化建设的民航机场。当我们提着行李，步出廊曼机场时，丽君第一个就说 ：[ 啊 ! 原来曼谷的飞机场竟比新加坡的大 ! ] 钟祜兄接着说 •• 「当然喽 ！泰国向来都是独立的 …. ..... 。」
泰国共有七十一府，划分为九个行政区。京畿府就是首都的所在地了，华人与欧人都称之为曼谷，是泰国的政治、经济，文化的中心，和交通的枢纽。这个带有浓厚的东方色彩的都会，隨处都可以看到东方式的尖塔建筑物，吸引了不少的游客。他们都为这异国的情调而感到惊喜，，引起了无限的乐趣。
这个拥有人口一百三十多万的大都会，也像新加坡一样，如同一个人种展览会。除了泰人之外，还有东西方各国的侨民，文化复杂，宗教也复杂，不过泰人绝大多数是信奉佛教的，到处都有宏伟典丽的寺庙佛塔，成为曼谷的一大特色。根据统计，曼谷市內，就有四百多座的佛寺，占了全市面积的五份之一，难怪它有「佛教国」之称了 ！
谈到教育方面，也与佛教有着密切的关系。过去，佛寺就是学校，僧侣就是教师。直到第五世王朱拉隆功执政以后，因西方文明的传入，政府便全力推行新的教育政策，所以旧式的寺院教育，便逐渐被完善的新教育制度所取代了。泰国现行的学制是小学四年，中学八年，大学四年。儿童由七岁至十四岁，必须接受初等的强迫教育。全国共有五间大学， 就是 •• (一) 朱拉隆功大学 (二) 法政大学 (三) 农业大学 (四) 医科大学 (五) 艺术大学 。
曼谷的气候炎热，日间温度高达九十八度在右。所以我们出门作画，每每挥汗如雨，回到旅舍就痛快的冲一个凉，否則真要热死了 ！
泰国丛记 -- 曼谷素描 （下）
现在曼谷的泰人，为了迎合欧美的潮流，多数已穿上西裝，妇女也多数穿上西式的裙子了。僧侣则一律穿上郁金色的袈裟。据说僧侶的人数约占全市人口的七分之一。所以泰国被称为 [黄衣国] 也并非无根据的。
全市公路四通八达，旅客要从曼谷到邻近各各府去游览的话，可以在皇家田附近的短程长途客车站搭车，交通是很便利的。不过路面的广阔平坦，较之新加坡，则略见逊色。
曼谷的华南峰火车站，其外貌与论貌与伦敦的维多利亚火车站颇相似，旅客从这里上车，向北可直抵清迈终点，全程共七百五十一公里。向东直达泰柬边境的亚兰，全程二百五十公里。火车內既肮脏，座位有短狭，远不如马来亚境内的火车坐得舒服。
湄南河是一条富有诗情画意的河流 ！它是由北部的湄滨，湄汪，湄戎，湄难向南流下至北揽坡才汇合而成的。河道蜿蜓曲折，将曼谷围绕成一个半圆形，然后向南注入泰海湾。这一段河流的延长，约为三百公里。湄南河流域的两岸，土地肥沃，农产丰富，自从昭披耶大水坝建设完成之后，湄南河不但是泰国水上交通的大动脉，而且还是泰国境内最有经济价值的河流呢 ！
湄南河虽是一道滚滚黄浊的河水,不过它的河道纵横，沟渠密布，有舟楫之便。所以到泰国的旅客，都把曼谷比作「东方的威尼斯」。湄南河上的风光，有着异常动人的魅力。假使你乘了汽船，沿着湄南河航行的话，那么，你的眼界所及都是一幅幅鲜丽动人的画面 ； 那两岸的果树阴浓，枝叶交萦；固定的浮屋，鳞次栉比 ；耸峙的佛塔，奇伟瑰丽，青葱的禾田，一碧无垠 ；热闹的水上巴刹，多采多姿 •••• 总之，能坐船去游览一下这风光绮丽的湄南河，勾取几幅画稿，倒是挺有意思的 ！
拉玛一世王桥是落成於一九三二年，它横跨在湄南河上，沟通了京畿府和吞武里府的陆上交通，所以也称为 [ 京吞大铁桥 ] 。 这里不但是水陸交通的必经之地，同时还是曼谷精华的所在地。当我们仰视这座建筑伟大，设计别致的桥梁时，竟不期然而然地联想到我们常穿行过得星市独立桥来。除了这京吞大铁桥以外，横越湄南河的还有拉玛六世王桥 – 我们南返诗，所乘坐的火车，就由这道桥上经过 -- 军帖桥和军吞桥等。
我们这次到曼谷来，是下榻於唐人区 （ China Town ） 的叻察旺旅馆。这区内的耀华利路 （ Jauariy Road ） 这达数里，著名的三聘街既与此路相接，这里是华侨商贾辐辏的地方，华文的招牌到处都可见到。当华灯初上的时候，各商店灯光如昼，顾客如云。 街道上车辆来往奔驰， 五颜六色的广告霓虹灯，那纷扰烦嚣的闹市街景，真足以令你眼花缭乱，目不暇给呢 ！ 曼谷是一个不夜城，所有繁荣都会的特有色彩，糜烂气氛， 美丑对照的现象，都可以在这里察到 ！喜欢寻幽探胜的旅客，也可以得到最大的满足 ！
Thai Chronicles - Sketches of Bangkok (Part 1)
Last year, during the leisure of our holiday, we successfully completed a three-week short-term trip to the Indonesian islands of Java and Bali. The joy of exploring new sights and the immeasurable gain in knowledge need no elaboration. Particularly, spending a short time immersed in the breathtaking beauty of nature and experiencing the customs and cultures of foreign lands, we found every angle rich in artistic inspiration, igniting our passion for painting. We ended up creating numerous artworks. During our journey, we also had the opportunity to make friends with like-minded foreign artists. For artists like us, this was not just a great joy in life but also a rewarding experience!
This year, we enthusiastically prepared for a trip to neighboring Thailand and Cambodia. Our purpose was not to superficially admire the urban landscapes but rather to gather artistic inspiration from these places. After completing all the necessary travel arrangements, our group of twelve departed from Singapore's Paya Lebar Airport and flew to Bangkok aboard Garuda Indonesia.
After a two-and-a-half-hour flight, we landed at Don Mueang Airport in Bangkok. This airport, a grand and modern civil aviation hub, greeted us with its impressive scale. As we carried our luggage and walked out of Don Mueang Airport, my wife was the first to exclaim, "Ah! Bangkok's airport is even larger than Singapore's!" To this, my friend added, "Of course! Thailand has always been independent..."
Thailand is divided into 71 provinces, grouped into nine administrative regions. Bangkok, the capital city, is where we landed and serves as the political, economic, and cultural heart of Thailand, as well as a major transportation hub. This city, steeped in oriental charm, boasts distinctively Eastern architecture with its striking spires, attracting many tourists. They are pleasantly surprised by its exotic ambiance, which brings boundless joy.
With a population of over 13 million, this bustling metropolis is like an exhibition of diverse races, much like Singapore. Apart from the Thai people, there are also residents of various ethnicities from Eastern and Western countries. The culture here is rich and diverse, as is the religion, although the majority of Thais adhere to Buddhism. Grand and resplendent temples and pagodas are ubiquitous, becoming a major characteristic of Bangkok. According to statistics, there are over 400 temples within Bangkok, occupying one-fifth of the city's total area. No wonder it is known as the "City of Temples"!
Regarding education, there is a close connection with Buddhism. In the past, temples served as schools, and monks were the teachers. It wasn't until the reign of King Rama V that, with the influx of Western civilization, the government fully promoted a new education policy. Consequently, the old temple education system was gradually replaced by a more comprehensive modern education system. The current Thai education system comprises four years of primary school, eight years of secondary school, and four years of university. Mandatory primary education is enforced for children aged seven to fourteen. There are five universities in the country: (1) Chulalongkorn University, (2) Thammasat University, (3) Kasetsart University, (4) Mahidol University, and (5) Silpakorn University.
Bangkok has a hot climate, with daytime temperatures soaring up to 98 degrees Fahrenheit. Therefore, when we went out to paint, we often perspired profusely. Upon returning to our lodgings, we eagerly took refreshing showers, for without them, the sweltering heat could be unbearable!
Today, the Thai people in Bangkok, in order to align with Western trends, have mostly adopted Western attire. Even women frequently wear Western-style dresses. Monks, on the other hand, invariably don saffron robes. It's said that the number of monks in Thailand amounts to approximately one-seventh of the city's population. Thus, Thailand has earned its nickname as the "Land of Yellow Robes."
The city boasts a network of well-connected roads, making it convenient for tourists to visit nearby provinces from Bangkok. At the short and long-distance bus station near the Royal Field, one can easily catch a ride. However, in comparison to Singapore, the roads here are slightly less impressive, although they are wide and well-maintained.
Bangkok's Hua Lamphong Railway Station, with its exterior reminiscent of London's Victoria Station, serves as the central transportation hub. Passengers departing from this station can travel north to Chiang Mai, covering a distance of 751 kilometers. Alternatively, they can journey east to Aranyaprathet, on the Thai-Cambodian border, spanning 250 kilometers. However, the train carriages are dirty, and the seats are cramped, far from the comfort of trains in Malaysia.
The Chao Phraya River, a picturesque waterway, spans 300 kilometers. It is formed by the convergence of the Ping, Wang, Yom, and Nan rivers from the north, eventually flowing into the Gulf of Thailand to the south. The winding and meandering river encircles Bangkok in a semicircular manner before merging into the Gulf. The Chao Phraya River, with its fertile banks and abundant agricultural produce, has flourished since the completion of the Chao Phraya Dam. It not only serves as the main artery for water transportation in Thailand but is also the most economically valuable river in the country.
Though the Chao Phraya River is a muddy, turbulent river, its intricate network of channels makes it convenient for boat travel. As a tourist in Thailand, you might liken Bangkok to the "Venice of the East" when you take a boat ride along the Chao Phraya River. The scenery on the river is exceptionally captivating. If you board a boat and navigate along the Chao Phraya, you'll be treated to a series of picturesque scenes: lush fruit trees casting dappled shade, tightly clustered stilt houses, towering pagodas in all their grandeur, sprawling green rice fields stretching to the horizon, and bustling floating markets, a vibrant display of colors. In short, a boat ride on the enchanting Chao Phraya River is a fascinating experience and an opportunity to capture several sketches!
The Rama I Bridge, completed in 1932, spans the Chao Phraya River, connecting Bangkok with Thonburi Province, and is also known as the "Bangkok-Thonburi Railway Bridge." This bridge is a vital transport link and a focal point of Bangkok's essence. As we gazed at this magnificent and uniquely designed bridge, we couldn't help but draw parallels with the familiar Cavenagh Bridge in Singapore. Besides the Rama I Bridge, there are several other bridges crossing the Chao Phraya, including Rama VI Bridge, Phra Pin Klao Bridge, and Krung Thon Bridge.
During our stay in Bangkok, we lodged at the Li Zha Wang Hotel in Chinatown. Yowarat Road, the main thoroughfare in this area, stretches for several miles, connecting to the renowned Sampeng Lane. This part of the city is a hub of activity for Chinese merchants, with Chinese signboards visible everywhere. When night falls, the shops illuminate brightly, making the streets as vibrant as day, teeming with customers. The streets are bustling with vehicles coming and going, and the multicolored neon advertisements create a chaotic yet captivating cityscape. Bangkok truly lives up to its reputation as a city that never sleeps, presenting all the unique colors, vibrant atmosphere, and a stark contrast of beauty and ugliness that one would expect in a thriving metropolis. For travelers who enjoy seeking hidden treasures, Bangkok provides ample opportunities for exploration and satisfaction.
English Translation: Thai Chronicles - Sketches of Bangkok (Part 2)
Present-day Bangkok residents, in order to keep up with Western trends, have largely adopted Western attire. Even most women now wear Western-style dresses. Monks, on the other hand, continue to wear saffron robes. It's said that monks make up about one-seventh of the city's population, which is why Thailand is often called the "Yellow Robe Country."
The city boasts an extensive road network, making it convenient for travelers to visit nearby provinces from Bangkok. For short and long-distance bus trips, you can easily catch a ride at the short and long-distance bus station near the Royal Field. However, in comparison to Singapore, the roads here are slightly less impressive, though they are wide and well-maintained.
Bangkok's Hua Lamphong Railway Station, with its exterior reminiscent of London's Victoria Station, serves as the central transportation hub. Passengers departing from this station can travel north to Chiang Mai, covering a distance of 751 kilometers. Alternatively, they can journey east to Aranyaprathet, on the Thai-Cambodian border, spanning 250 kilometers. However, the train carriages are dirty, and the seats are cramped, far from the comfort of trains in Malaysia.
The Chao Phraya River, a picturesque waterway, spans 300 kilometers. It is formed by the convergence of the Ping, Wang, Yom, and Nan rivers from the north, eventually flowing into the Gulf of Thailand to the south. The winding and meandering river encircles Bangkok in a semicircular manner before merging into the Gulf. The Chao Phraya River, with its fertile banks and abundant agricultural produce, has flourished since the completion of the Chao Phraya Dam. It not only serves as the main artery for water transportation in Thailand but is also the most economically valuable river in the country.
Though the Chao Phraya River is a muddy, turbulent river, its intricate network of channels makes it convenient for boat travel. As a tourist in Thailand, you might liken Bangkok to the "Venice of the East" when you take a boat ride along the Chao Phraya River. The scenery on the river is exceptionally captivating. If you board a boat and navigate along the Chao Phraya, you'll be treated to a series of picturesque scenes: lush fruit trees casting dappled shade, tightly clustered stilt houses, towering pagodas in all their grandeur, sprawling green rice fields stretching to the horizon, and bustling floating markets, a vibrant display of colors. In short, a boat ride on the enchanting Chao Phraya River is a fascinating experience and an opportunity to capture several sketches!
The Rama I Bridge, completed in 1932, spans the Chao Phraya River, connecting Bangkok with Thonburi Province, and is also known as the "Bangkok-Thonburi Railway Bridge." This bridge is a vital transport link and a focal point of Bangkok's essence. As we gazed at this magnificent and uniquely designed bridge, we couldn't help but draw parallels with the familiar Cavenagh Bridge in Singapore. Besides the Rama I Bridge, there are several other bridges crossing the Chao Phraya, including Rama VI Bridge, Phra Pin Klao Bridge, and Krung Thon Bridge.
During our stay in Bangkok, we lodged at the Li Zha Wang Hotel in Chinatown. Yowarat Road, the main thoroughfare in this area, stretches for several miles, connecting to the renowned Sampeng Lane. This part of the city is a hub of activity for Chinese merchants, with Chinese signboards visible everywhere. When night falls, the shops illuminate brightly, making the streets as vibrant as day, teeming with customers. The streets are bustling with vehicles coming and going, and the multicolored neon advertisements create a chaotic yet captivating cityscape. Bangkok truly lives up to its reputation as a city that never sleeps, presenting all the unique colors, vibrant atmosphere, and a stark contrast of beauty and ugliness that one would expect in a thriving metropolis. For travelers who enjoy seeking hidden treasures, Bangkok provides ample opportunities for exploration and satisfaction.