到清迈去（下）
To Chiang Mai (Part 2)
我们从车窗眺望，只见过不远处，秧笛碧绿，都呈现出活泼而浓厚的生机。再过不远处，映入眼帘的竟是一片金黄色地毯似的成熟庄稼，在斜阳的照耀之下，益发显出一片璀璨悦目的色调！疏落的村舍不时飘起了一缕缕的青烟，荷锄的农夫，成群的牛羊，都悠闲地踏上了他们的归途。这是多么优美的诗境啊！所谓「斜阳照墟落，穷巷牛羊归。」却是此时最好的写照！
不久，这宛如长蛇阵的笨重火车，拖着我们从桥上渡过了巴塞河，到达了华富里火车站。这里仅离开曼谷一百二十公里，是泰国的一大古城。当六世纪至十一世纪时是被称为罗斛国，一般载藉认为是现在的吉蔑族所建立的国家，至十三世纪前后为泰族的速古台所并吞。著名的三峰塔就矗立在火车站的附近，是罗斛时代所建的三座堡垒形的婆罗门式建筑物，据说塔上还有很多雕刻和佛像。但是我们只能远远地对着数百年来经历了风雨侵蚀，犹能巍然独存的三峰塔作一瞬间的凭吊了！在那幽静的月色照耀之下，在夜虫的凄咽声中的古塔，更显得荒凉落寞，悠然地飘来了一阵日暮的韵味，撩起了遊人无限的凄清之感！车笛一响，此情此景便又似惊鸿掠影一般的急掠而过，不让我们驻眸了，只在脑海中留下一个模糊的印象而已！经过了北榄坡车站之后，已是午夜时分了。同伴们有的已侧着身子在座位上打盹，我却好几次攀越过那如小山一般的行李，至餐车中去大叹我的「咖啡乌」。但是富于刺激性的浓咖啡，到底也敌不住我那连日来的疲累，不知在什么时候，我已酣睡在甜美的梦乡中了。
「呜～～」一阵火车的长鸣声，把我从睡梦中唤醒过来，一阵沁心的晓风吹过，竟使我们感到微微的颤抖，我深深的吸了一口清新的朝气，心胸倍感甜美！在餐车里吃了早点，不久就到达了彭世洛府，也是泰国历史上的著名的古都。据说在这里有一座最美丽的佛像--亲那叻佛祖。可是我们只是路过，不能到市中一遊。远远地望见河中泊着密密的水桴，倒是另一番回异的风味。
这时我们已由泰国最富饶的泰中产米区，进入山岳地带的泰北，但见火车在架空的铁桥上，循着铁道，环揽着大山的蛮腰而前进。一边是巨屏障天的高山，另一边则是深邃莫测的翠谷，朝下俯看，大有令人触目惊心之感。
不知是谁发现了车厢中有一位体态轻盈，天资胜雪，宫鬓堆雅，明眸皓齿的清迈小姐，于是大家都精神百倍地在车厢中骚动了起来。有的兜着她讲话，有的摄影，有的素描，十多个人的视线与精神，全都集中在她一人身上。这真是一个有趣的镜头啊！如果太太们知道的话，大概又会严加批评了：“哼！你们这些画人的眼睛是最贪婪的！”不过，这位小姐的态度却是非常大方，举止文雅，笑容可掬的竟丝毫不以我们所忤呢！
经过了南邦府，我们已是踏入了海拔二百八十余公尺的泰北高原地区了。列车拖载着我们在往山岭上奔驰，但见森林密布，多为柚木与杂木林。不久，到达了南邦府的他巴洛府，穿过了全泰国最长的坤丹隧道，约过五分钟，火车才走完这段隧道，到达坤丹车站。
十一时半，我们已结束这一段十九个小时的长途旅程。抵达了这山明水秀的泰北首府--清迈！
We gazed out of the car window and saw lush green rice paddies not far away, all teeming with lively and vibrant life. Just a little further, we were greeted by a vast golden carpet of ripe crops. Under the slanting rays of the sun, it appeared even more dazzling and enchanting! Occasionally, thin wisps of blue smoke rose from the scattered village houses, and farmers returning from their fields with their cattle and sheep strolled leisurely along the way. What a beautiful scene it was! It truly embodied the poetic verse, 'The slanting sun illuminates the village, and in the narrow alleys, cows and sheep return home.' This was the best depiction of the current moment!
Before long, this lumbering train, resembling a long snake, carried us across the Ping River via a bridge and arrived at the station of Lamphun. Lamphun is situated just 120 kilometers from Bangkok and is one of Thailand's ancient cities. It was once known as the kingdom of Hariphunchai during the 6th to 11th centuries, believed to have been founded by the present-day Chams. Around the 13th century, it was merged into the Thai kingdom under King Mangrai. The famous Three Pagodas, built during the Hariphunchai period, stand near the train station. It is said that these pagodas contain many carvings and Buddha images. However, we could only offer a distant salute to the Three Pagodas, which had stood the test of time for centuries, enduring storms and erosion! Under the serene moonlight and amidst the melancholic cries of night insects, the ancient pagodas appeared even more desolate and lonely, exuding a sense of lingering twilight that lingered in the hearts of travelers. As the train whistle sounded, this poignant moment swiftly passed, leaving us with only a hazy impression in our minds! After passing through the station of Lamphun, it was already midnight. Some of my companions had already dozed off, leaning against their seats. However, despite my fatigue, I couldn't help but climb over the piled-up luggage, resembling a small mountain, and make my way to the dining car for a comforting cup of "kopi o." But even the invigorating, strong coffee couldn't overcome my fatigue, and I eventually fell into a deep slumber.
The sound of the train's long horn woke me from my sleep, and a refreshing morning breeze brushed past, causing a slight shiver. I took a deep breath of the crisp morning air, and it felt incredibly invigorating! After having breakfast in the dining car, we soon arrived at Phitsanulok, another historically significant city in Thailand. It was here that the esteemed King Naresuan was born, known for his legendary battles against the Burmese. We only passed through and couldn't explore the city. In the distance, we could see a multitude of sampans moored in the river, creating a picturesque sight.
At this point, we had already left the fertile central plains of Thailand, known for its rice production, and entered the mountainous region of northern Thailand. The train followed the railroad tracks, hugging the contours of the tall mountains, and the view from above was breathtaking. On one side were towering mountains that reached for the sky, while on the other side were deep, mysterious valleys. Looking down, one couldn't help but be awe-struck.
I wonder who first noticed the elegant lady from Chiang Mai who had joined our train carriage. She was graceful, with a slender figure, delicate features, and a charming smile. Everyone in the carriage suddenly became animated. Some engaged her in conversation, others took photographs, and a few even attempted to sketch her. The attention of over ten people was completely focused on her. It was indeed an interesting scene! If our wives knew, they would probably criticize us, saying, "Hmph! You artists have the greediest eyes!" However, the young lady was remarkably gracious, composed, and smiling throughout, not the least bit perturbed by our curiosity.
After passing the city of Phrae, we entered the northern highlands of Thailand, which sit at an elevation of over 280 meters. The train carried us further into the mountains, surrounded by dense forests, mostly teak and mixed woodlands. Before long, we arrived at Lampang, the province of northern Thailand, and passed through the longest tunnel in Thailand, the Khun Tan Tunnel. It took the train about five minutes to traverse this tunnel. Finally, we reached the Khun Tan Railway Station.
By 11:30 AM, we had completed this grueling 19-hour journey and arrived in the beautiful northern capital of Thailand – Chiang Mai!