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印尼记遊(廿一)
Travelogue in Indonesia 21

拜访⻩松鹤·万隆巡礼
Visiting Huang Songhe • Bandung Pilgrimage

走出⻋站,雇了三辆「德士」按址去拜访⻩松鹤先生。据其家人说:「己於日前至別墅等待你们了。」于是我们又转途至黃君之別墅去。在⻋里望⻅万隆市的整洁街道,庄严整全的建筑物,触目皆树木花草,明媚得使人惊异,不禁地喊出:「啊!万隆真不愧是爪哇的花都!」

黃君的別墅是建筑在山上的一栋华丽大厦。我们安排好行李,略事休息后,即往別墅周围参观。黃君极巧妙地利用山地之高下而高下填台,旁围栏干,萦纡有致。园中有一⻥池,水中红鲤悠悠然地穿游於田田的荷叶之间。池中堆有假山,尽态极致,更利用山泉喷水,增色不少。池左为葡萄架,直通竹林,园中百花盛开,姹紫嫣红,芳草盈庭,篁竹蒙翳,小径曲折,在林木掩映之下,別饶幽趣, 这全为黃君独出心裁之杰构也!

室內大厅亦装设一⻥池,并饰以图案,砌筑甚精。大餐厅、书楼、卧室等均精致而轩敞,四壁悬挂书画,琳琅满目,引人入胜,椅榻陈设亦无不美化。

黃君乃万隆纺织工业之巨子,年⻘时为一杰出之运动员,足迹踏遍东南亞,只需稍略浏览他亲所佈置的园林,便可知其胸怀之万有,黃君爱吟诗、爱栽花、爱结交文人画士,为人极有⻛趣,诚为不可多得之雅士也。我自愧拙蠢,不善辞令,竟致无法与黃君倾谈艺事,以聆教益!

五时,下山至万隆市作一度巡礼,我用着陌生的眼光,好奇地接触这都市。经过那富丽堂皇的主库 Joko 时,那橱窗里的陈设,无不富有美术思想,有着绝大的一股吸引力把我们诱引过去,只可惜大家行囊均羞涩,徒作壁上观而已!

万隆是一个美丽的山城,群山环绕,⻛光明媚,市容整洁,气候涼爽,絕无溽暑之闷,或高气压之 感。好玩之处多得不胜枚举。此处不但交通方便,万商云集,就是世界的旅行家,行及爪哇,亦无不 至此一游者。目前印尼最堂皇完美的何曼旅馆,即建在此市內。国际人士至万隆,多寄寓於此。自从亚非会议及亚非学生会议召开之后,「万隆」这地名更是脍炙人口了。据去万隆在史前时期是一大湖泊,后來湖水乾涸了,就形成干阔的盆地。三百年前,这里还是一个穷乡僻壤的村落,现在已成为爪哇岛上的四犬都市之一。同时还是印度尼⻄亚纺织工业的中心地。其进步之速,殊足以惊人。它不但是人文荟萃,商贾辐辏的地方,而且还被公认为避暑及疗养的胜地呢!
万隆的土地肥沃,物产丰富。树胶、米稻、咖啡等的出产都相当有名。尤以专治疟疾的特效药——奎宁为此地的特产。曾有人这么说过:「就是將一根手杖,插在万隆的土地上,也能开花结果的!」

八时,承黃君的厚意,请我们在酒楼中吃了一顿极为丰盛的晚餐。九时返至山庄,凭栏远眺万隆市的夜景:但⻅华灯点点,灿若列星,其狀之美,不啻仙境!骤视之,更宛如一顶镶满金钢钻的皇冠!我对着这宜人的夜景,加以山⻛夜寒,星光泻映,真可饱餍心目,感到畅通无比!然以连日劳顿,精力已乏,至此已不复支持。十一时就寝。(二十一)

Leaving the train station, we hired three taxis and gave the addresses for our visit to Mr. Huang Songhe. According to his family, he had been waiting for us at the villa. So, we changed our route and headed to Mr. Huang's villa. As we looked out of the taxi, the tidy streets of Bandung, the well-constructed buildings, and the greenery all around us were a sight to behold. We couldn't help but exclaim, "Ah! Bandung truly lives up to its reputation as the Flower City of Java!"

Mr. Huang's villa was a magnificent building perched on a hill. After settling in and taking some rest, we explored the surroundings of the villa. Mr. Huang had ingeniously utilized the hilly terrain to create terraced gardens with elegant railings and winding paths. There was a pond with red koi fish leisurely swimming among the lotus leaves. The pond was surrounded by intricately designed rock formations, and a small waterfall added to the charm. To the left of the pond, there were grapevines that led to a bamboo grove. The garden was in full bloom with a riot of colors from various flowers, and the bamboo and trees provided pleasant shade. The winding pathways meandered through the lush vegetation, creating a serene and enchanting atmosphere. This was a testament to Mr. Huang's remarkable landscaping skills!

Inside the villa, there was another pond adorned with artistic patterns, and the craftsmanship was impeccable. The dining hall, library, bedrooms, and other rooms were all elegantly designed and spacious. The walls were adorned with paintings and calligraphy, making it a visual delight. The furniture and furnishings were equally tasteful.

Mr. Huang was a prominent figure in Bandung's textile industry and a former outstanding athlete in his youth. His travels had taken him across Southeast Asia, and one could grasp the vastness of his knowledge and interests by simply strolling through the gardens he had personally designed. Mr. Huang had a penchant for poetry, gardening, and befriending literati and artists. He was a person of great refinement and a rare connoisseur. I felt inadequate in comparison, lacking eloquence and the ability to engage in artistic conversations that could enrich my knowledge.

At five o'clock, we descended from the hill to explore Bandung city for a while. I looked upon the city with unfamiliar eyes, curious to experience this urban setting. Passing by the magnificent Joko department store, the displays in the windows were artistically arranged, radiating a captivating allure that drew us in. Unfortunately, we were all burdened with our luggage, so we could only admire them from the outside, like art on display on a wall.

Bandung is a beautiful mountain city, surrounded by hills and bathed in pleasant weather. The cityscape is clean, and the climate is cool, free from the suffocating heat or high-pressure conditions. There are countless attractions to explore here. Bandung offers not only convenience in terms of transportation but also attracts travelers from all over the world. Even those passing through Java make it a point to visit this city. Currently, the most magnificent and perfect hotel in Indonesia, the Savoy Homann Hotel, is located here. International guests often choose to stay in Bandung. The name "Bandung" gained even more recognition after the Asian-African Conference and the Asian-African Students' Conference were held here.

Historically, Bandung was once a vast lake in prehistoric times, which later dried up to form a vast basin. Three hundred years ago, it was a remote and impoverished village, but it has now become one of the four major cities in Java. It's also the center of Indonesia's textile industry, and its rapid progress is truly astonishing. Bandung is not only a hub of culture and commerce but is also recognized as a resort and convalescent destination due to its pleasant climate.

The land in Bandung is fertile, and its natural resources are abundant. It is famous for the production of rubber, rice, coffee, and particularly quinine, an effective medicine for treating malaria. Some have even said that you could plant a stick in the soil of Bandung, and it would bear fruit!

At eight o'clock, thanks to Mr. Huang's generosity, we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner at a restaurant. At nine o'clock, we returned to the villa, and I leaned against the railing to gaze at the night view of Bandung. The city was adorned with countless bright lights, resembling a galaxy of stars. Its beauty was otherworldly, almost like a crown studded with diamonds. As I admired this delightful nocturnal scene, with the cool mountain breeze, the night's chill, and the stars above, I felt a profound sense of contentment. However, after several days of exertion, my energy was waning, and I retired to bed at eleven o'clock.

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