印尼记遊（十）
Travelogue in Indonesia 10

四月十二日，本擬今日⻜赴泗水，但航空公司方面申告：⻜机座位已告客满，无奈何，只好在巴厘岛上多逗留一天了。

一早去参观巴厘博物馆，并在馆前勾了兩幅素描，然后亟亟驱⻋前往丹 柏沙令Tampaksiring。一路上看不尽的山川景物，⻋行兩小时光景， 便到达目的地。这是中巴厘的一个山村，茅舍稀落，峰峦苍翠。遥望村 山，一片绿茵，树木阴浓，枝叶交萦，溢出了⻘郁郁的色彩。丛遮在这万绿丛中，只⻅鮮花怒放，嫣紅片片，金⻩点点，在阳光的映照之下， 明艳鮮研，尤饶美感。『 啊 ! 這豈不是一幅「色彩三和音」的快美画面吗 ? 』我禁不住发出这样的赞歌！在山间还耸立着雅致的台榭园亭，依山势而绵延的楼阁，中有長虹式的拱桥，横跨於兩山之间。山高桥险， 富有別致。在这么绝妙的佳境中，能復加以优美的人工点缀，真有锦上添花的妙趣 ! 我们想至此探幽，以尽佳境。但承谢君相告，此园是苏加诺总统之行宮，列为禁地，使游客所止步的。

我们⻋子驶至一干场之树荫下停下來。步出⻋⻔，便看⻅一⻓列的摊档，陈售着各种雕刻品。摊前还有许多卖生果的小贩争向游客兜售。巴厘有一种水果，名叫「沙拉」的，果肉略黃，外皮褐色有如蛇皮，果味佳美。巴厘人都认为这是果中佳品，多在⻄餐后，作为一种果类美点。

这种水果在⻢來亚并不多⻅，偶而虽买到，但果眛酸涩，吃了有舌涩齿软的感觉。在这里十魯比 —— 约合叻币五分 —— 可买十五个，我一口气吃了五，六个，吃时香沁肺腑，真觉美味可口。

谢君领着我们穿过干场，走进一座极古老的大⻔楼，再几经曲折，就⻅一泓约兩英亩的池潭，泛然在望。我心里想；这么平平无奇的一泓池潭有什么好看头？竟值得我们老远地跑来？所以一时很不以为然。再沿着曲折的小路，走近潭边，俯视之，则⻅池潭底下，每隔五呎便有一团黑黑的泉水，不断地往上翻涌，有如千百条乌⻰在盘旋，又如一群仙女舞弄着⻓条的黑缎，婆娑翩舞，其足以眩人眼廉。 但咫尺之外，则又清澈如镜。至此，乃知造物之钟灵毓秀，每不在外貌之饰观。我仅一窥其肉容，既诧为奇妙而未可思议了。

因泉水之不断往上喷涌、池潭就有溢满之虞，故在池潭之左旁辟一大洞，使泉水由此流入第二池，专供男人沐浴之用。继而注入第三池、第四池，分別供給女人与小孩沐浴。再由此即转成小流而在注入溪涧。本地人均称此泉为圣水，池之四周，均以短墙围绕。由入口处进池，沿石级而下，便可在此受圣水之洗礼。这泉水清润可爱，我敢断定就是不喜欢玩水的人，到了这里，也会怦然心动，悠然神往的。凤美极欲耸身入浴，但终因缺乏这股勇气而作罢了。

我在池侧找到一个角度:颓圮的墙边，⻓着一苍劲古老的大红花树，那树根有如巨蛇般地将那如炼的围墙砸得破裂了，露出深棕色的砖块耒。又再由此折往下延，环抱着一截短墙，乾瘪得有如老人手上的浮筋，直至地又如章⻥的触须似地向四周伸延。树后有一⻔楼侧向直立。⻔楼上每层尖角的雕刻，都极富於巴厘味。⻔楼旁有石像两尊，再往后是兩尖塔，隐約可⻅。光、色、线的配合，都那么的富有艺术化，完全是画中的境界啊!我很满意地描画一幅。谢君也画了一幅⻔楼，城梅却一变过去作⻛，专画⻔楼上之雕刻，凤美画摊前零食的小姑娘，潮光画田野，真是各得其所哉。盘恒至五时，乃相偕登⻋回程，返舍时，已入夜七时。

谢君径至⻜机场替我们打听消息，不久，又带着满脸失望的神情回来了。我们知道又是「客满」。⻜机即坐不成，我们也不能再事逗留，便決定舍空行而改走陆路了。

晚餐后，拜访高端杰君，并向他辞行。高君是我的同乡，一位巴厘通。为人豪爽好客，家藏有古董， 古玩，诚为⻛雅之士。

九时回旅馆，参观狮子舞，场中晤⻅⻢来亚画家李家耀，畅谈至十一时，大家才各自离开。 (十)

On April 12th, originally planned to fly to Surabaya today, but the airline reported that all seats were fully booked. Helplessly, we had to extend our stay in Bali for another day.

In the morning, we visited the Bali Museum and sketched two drawings in front of the museum. Then, we quickly set off for Tampaksiring. Along the way, we witnessed the breathtaking scenery of mountains and rivers. After about a two-hour drive, we reached our destination. This was a mountain village in central Bali, with scattered thatched houses and lush green peaks. Looking at the village from a distance, it appeared as a green carpet, with thick trees and intertwining branches and leaves, creating a rich green color. Amidst this lush greenery, vibrant flowers blossomed in various shades of red and gold, glistening brilliantly in the sunlight. "Ah! Isn't this a harmonious composition of colors?" I couldn't help but exclaim. The scene was like a masterpiece of "color harmony."

In the midst of this natural beauty, the addition of man-made structures like pavilions and bridges seemed to enhance its charm even further. As we explored this enchanting place, it felt like a hidden paradise. However, to our disappointment, our guide informed us that this garden was actually the presidential palace of President Sukarno and was off-limits to visitors. We couldn't explore it any further.

We parked our car in the shade of a large tree and explored a row of stalls selling various carved items. In front of these stalls, many vendors were selling fresh fruits to the tourists. One fruit unique to Bali was called "salak," with slightly yellow flesh covered in brown, snake-like skin. It had a delightful taste, and the locals considered it a delicacy, often serving it as a dessert after meals.

This particular fruit was rarely found in other parts of Southeast Asia, and even if you did find it, it often tasted sour and astringent. However, in Bali, you could buy fifteen of these for just ten rupees, which was roughly equivalent to five cents. I indulged myself by eating five or six of them, and the flavor was truly delicious.

Our guide, Mr. Xie, led us through a dry field to a grand old gateway. After several twists and turns, we came upon a pool about two acres in size, sparkling in the sunlight. At first glance, I wondered what was so special about this seemingly ordinary pool to warrant our long journey. However, as we approached the edge, we could see the pool's bottom, which was covered with clusters of dark spring water bubbling up every five feet. It looked as if thousands of black snakes were spiraling and dancing, or like a group of fairies twirling long strands of black satin ribbons. The sight was mesmerizing and beyond imagination. This was a place where the perfection of nature lay hidden beneath an unassuming exterior.

To prevent the pool from overflowing due to the continuous upward flow of spring water, a large tunnel had been created on the left side of the pool. This tunnel channeled the spring water into a second pool, which was exclusively for men to bathe in. From there, the water flowed into a third pool, then a fourth, for women and children to use. Finally, it transformed into a small stream and flowed into a river. The locals referred to this spring as "holy water." Stone walls surrounded the pool, and you could enter the pool through an entrance, walking down stone steps. The holy water was believed to have purifying properties, and I couldn't help but imagine that even those who didn't particularly enjoy water would be moved by the tranquility and beauty of this place.

I found a spot by the pool's edge to sketch. A decrepit wall stood there, and a magnificent old frangipani tree grew next to it. The tree's roots were like giant snakes, breaking the sturdy wall and revealing the deep brown bricks underneath. The tree's branches extended, forming a canopy over a small gatehouse. Each level of the gatehouse had intricately carved decorations, exuding a distinct Balinese flavor. Next to the gatehouse were two stone statues, followed by two pointed towers faintly visible in the distance. The interplay of light, color, and lines created an artistic harmony that transported me into a painted world. I was very pleased with the painting I created here.

Mr. Xie also painted the gatehouse, while Seah Boey focused on the gatehouse's carvings, and Foong Moi painted the young girls selling snacks at the stalls. Teo Kwang chose to depict the fields, and it seemed that everyone found inspiration in different aspects of this extraordinary place. Time flew, and by the time we were done, it was already five o'clock. We reluctantly left, knowing that we couldn't explore further.

Mr. Xie went to the airport to check for any updates on our flight, but he returned with a disappointed expression. As we feared, the flight was still fully booked, and there was no way for us to board. We couldn't extend our stay any longer, so we decided to change our plans and travel by land.

After dinner, we visited a fellow artist named Gao Jing, said our goodbyes, and returned to our lodgings by nine o'clock. We watched a lion dance performance and even ran into Lee Ka Yiu, a Malaysian artist, and engaged in a lively conversation until eleven o'clock. Eventually, we bid farewell and dispersed for the night.