印尼记遊（十二）
Travelogue in Indonesia 12

特⾥的斯 Tretes 位於泗⽔南部三⼗⾥之⼭地上。拔海虽祗三百余尺，但⽓候清凉，夜间⽓温约在华⽒表上六⼗五度之间，为⼀避暑胜地。⼭上有三处瀑布，⻛景绝佳。我们留宿在李泽恭先⽣的別墅⾥。李君是泗⽔的殷商，能诗善画，诚⼀⻛雅⼈⼠。

李⽒⼭庄位处於最⻓瀑布之右侧，就⼭佈置，环境清幽绝俗。从书院下望，为⼀削壁悬崖，遥望层峰翠叠，仰视崖巅，飛瀑⾃空直射⽽下，⾼約五、六丈，经⽇光之照耀，五光⼗⾊，令⼈遐思不已。下注触⽯，⽔花四溅，洁⽩如霜。瀑布之声，宛如万⻢奔腾。古⼈有诗云：「珠帘钩不卷，匹练挂遥峰。」实在是最好不过的写照。书院傍侧，有⼀株⾼約三丈的荔枝树，挺秀卓⽴，很为別致，是为李君亲⼿所栽植者。

崖⾕间，多野⽣之⻩菊，叶腴花⼤，实得⼒於天道与⼟⼒之助。远眺岗岭起伏衬托有致，林⽊丛叠，尤饶奇趣，⻦声清脆，⾳调绝佳；⿈花载道，清⾹袭⼈，⽔光艳敛，赏⼼悅⺫，⻛⾼⽓爽，⾝⼼舒服，真所谓：「草⽊皆富诗情，⽔⽯尽含画意，」武陵⼈寻桃源不可复得，⽽竟为李君所觅到了。

昨⽇因路途劳顿，今晨睡意甚酣浓，李君⼀早促我起⾝同观⽇出，我忙穿上绒线⾐，离开暖衾窝，起⾝下床来，相偕步出庭前，是时晨曦未露，朝露沾⾐，晓⻛迫⼈，清凉彻⾻，少顷，岚光渐现，⻄⽅还是⼀⽚灰⿊，东⽅已略现出⻩⾊，忽⼜呈现出⽆数彩霞，云海渐展，俄⽽⾦星⼀点冲破了那灰⽩⾊的云层，脱颖⽽出，是时，流云幻变，五⾊互映，那灿烂鲜红的晓⽇，⺒从云树中透露出脸⼉来，云朵上⼜多染上⼀层可爱的橘红⾊，镶上了⼀道晶亮的⾦边，更增奇丽，射进了⼤地，此景此⾊，真是美极了，我想，就是集合世界的名画家，也难以把这⽇出的奇景，描绘得维妙维肖呢！历来就有不少⽂⼈墨客，对这⽇出奇观，有过不少的描写与赞叹。写来真是绘⾊绘影，⼀字⼀珠。我实未敢着笔，但因奇景当前， 惹起了⼈类本性美感之激动， 竟致不顾渎犯⾃然，以不华之笔，道出⼼中之万千感触，⾯对着这奇丽的意境，禁不住⼝占⼩诗⼀⾸道：

岚涌千峰化渺茫，⻛來绝⾕野花⾹。
沈沈⽟宇⾼寒地，旭⽇如轮出东⽅。

我们流连到太阳已达天空时，⽅才回去盥洗。李君预备了丰富的早点招待我们。七时，溫君、庄君与潮光同⻋先⾏。城梅、凤美、丽君与我同乘李君之私⻋出发。⼋时半抵玛琅 Malang 在⼀家最简陋的旅馆⾥，与他们六⼈汇合了。泽恭先住为我们準备了午餐之⾷品，即刻动程到南海 Nelijep 去作画。沿途多⼭路，兩旁均为柚⽊樹 djati 说这柚⽊，种后⼗年即可砍伐，以前多为德⼈所经营，现在已收归国有。因柚⽊⽣⻓地区不能超越拔海六百公尺以上的⼭地，所以这些柚⽊园，⼤都位在中⽖哇的低地带，其余地区前为少⻅。全岛之柚⽊林，据地约七千平⽅公⾥，是⽖哇岛的重要林产。此外还有⻩洋树林，叶细多枝，状如中国画中之古树，⻛来时，便萧萧作响声。在这起伏的⼭路中，绿树荫翳，习习⻛⽣，驰驱之间，⼼神倒为之⼀舒，再加以清朗的好阳光，旅途上更觉美满⽽愉快。

六⼗⾥的路程不算短，但因⼼中颇觉快意，所以竟在不知不觉中抵达了南海岸。⻋⼦忽然骤往下冲，在⼀家旅馆前停了下来。我们把东⻄卸下后，即往海滩上去作画。这是⼀处海湾，两旁多崖⽯，洪涛拍岸，如翻匹练。⽯上古藤攀蔓，古树数株，孤峭苍劲，有迎⻛凌云之致。⼗⼆时，在旅馆⾥⽤午餐。饭后，⼜向东步⾏⾄约半英⾥外的海滩上去作画。滩前有⼀孤礁，兩旁怪⽯环抱，海⻛卷起了浪涛，由孤礁的四周冲激起⾼达数丈的浪花，发出了阵阵巨⼤的啸声，哗喇喇地响个不住，真有惊魂摄魄的奇伟⽓象！那孤礁⾼约三丈，阔五丈，狀如伏狮，屹浸在哪轰雷似的卷浪之中，显出了⼀种坚伟不屈的⽓概！

七时半，返⾄玛琅旅舍。庄占辉君是玛琅的知名画家，他为了要尽地主之谊，特请我们上餐馆去吃晚饭，点选了⼀只烧鸡，⼀盘清蒸⻥，⼀盘⼤⻰虾；这些都是此处有名的菜肴，⼊⼝肥美，不觉多吃。⼤家⼀快朵颐后，原想去看看当地画家的作品，但因时间关系，只好作罢。但庄君的画不能不去欣赏，以收观摩之效。庄君是⼀位业余画家，作⻛写实，却有⼤胆的笔触，鲜艳的⾊彩。⼈像⽐⻛景更为到家。运笔流利，构图严谨，颇受现代中国⻄洋画的影响。他虽然是⼀位商⼈，但除了店⾯之外，后厅，货仓，楼梯旁全挂满了作品，甚⾄楼上的⾛廊，客厅，寝室也是满壁画幅。当我们正看得⼊神的时候，庄太太来了，凤美⼀⻅到她便说：「呵！你真本事，会找到这么本事的丈夫！」…………

离开庄府之后，便利⽤余暇，乘坐三轮⻋，逛游玛琅市，以观览市容。这⾥的街道宽敞，市街整洁，有如⻢来亚的怡保市。此地⽓候清涼，⽓温约六⼗五度之间。⻛景优美，到处都可⻅到⻘翠的树⽊，娇艳的花草，与雅致的台树园亭。据说：玛琅与万隆，在⽖哇岛上，就像中国的苏杭⼀样；有句俗话说：⻄万隆，东玛琅。由此可⻅这兩地是⻬名的。

⻢朗市的东⾯，有⼀座⾼约⼀千⼋百公尺的⽕⼭，是⽖哇岛上的第⼀⾼⼭，我们本想去瞻仰它那雄伟的⽓势，但因时间倥忽，⼜为时⽇⾏程所限，既去了南海，就⽆暇登⼭，所以只好留待后缘了。

因为玛琅的⽓候佳，景⾊美，所以⼤的旅馆，咸为⼤官员⻓期租⽤下来，旅客只好下榻於最下等的旅馆了。虽是下等旅馆，还是得劳烦庄君在五天前替我们预定下来。否则，将⽆栖⽌之所呢 ！！

旅馆內的设备，简陋得⽆以复加，连被单亦⽆⼀张，更不必谈到⽑毯了。半夜⽓温骤降，泠得瑟缩发抖，⽆法成寝，只好起床，在室内踱着⽅步以⾄达旦。 （⼗⼆）

Tretes is located on a hill about thirty miles south of Surabaya. Although it's only about 300 feet above sea level, the climate is cool, with nighttime temperatures around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, making it a summer retreat. There are three waterfalls on the mountain, creating stunning scenery. We stayed at Mr. Li Zegong's villa. Mr. Li is a wealthy businessman in Surabaya, skilled in poetry and painting, truly a refined gentleman.

The Li Villa is located to the right of the longest waterfall, designed to blend seamlessly with the serene surroundings. Looking down from the villa, there's a sheer cliff, and in the distance, layer upon layer of green peaks. Looking up at the cliff's summit, a waterfall cascades down from the sky, about five or six meters high. Under the sunlight, it displays a myriad of colors, leaving one lost in thought. As you approach the rocks at the bottom, water splashes, white as frost. The sound of the waterfall resembles the rush of a thousand horses. Ancient poets once wrote, "Pearl curtains remain unrolled, silky threads hang from distant peaks," which perfectly captures the essence of this place. Adjacent to the villa, there's a lychee tree, about three meters tall, standing tall and upright, quite unique. It was planted by Mr. Li himself.

Between the cliffs, you'll find wild sunflowers, with lush leaves and large flowers, thriving under the influence of nature and the earth. Gazing into the rolling hills, the layers of trees and shrubs create a picturesque landscape. The sound of running water is crisp, with a beautiful melody. The red flowers bloom luxuriously, with a pleasant fragrance. The air is cool and refreshing, providing great comfort. This is truly a place where "every tree and plant inspires poetic feelings, every stone carries artistic meaning." The people of Wuling once searched for the Peach Blossom Spring without success, but Mr. Li seems to have found it.

Yesterday, due to the exhaustion of the journey, I slept soundly this morning. Mr. Li urged me to get up early to watch the sunrise. I quickly put on a warm robe, left my cozy bed, and stepped out into the courtyard. At this time, dawn had not yet broken, the morning dew clung to the robe, and the morning breeze was invigorating, with a crisp chill. After a while, the faint light began to appear in the west, still gray and black, but in the east, a hint of yellow was emerging. Suddenly, countless colorful clouds appeared, and the sea of clouds gradually expanded. Then, a golden star pierced through the gray-white clouds, shining brightly. At that moment, the clouds transformed, displaying a variety of colors. The brilliant red sun, like a phoenix, emerged from behind the clouds. The clouds above were tinged with lovely orange-red hues, adorned with a shining gold edge, making the scene even more beautiful. The sunlight streamed down to the earth, creating a breathtaking spectacle. I thought to myself that even the world's most renowned painters would find it challenging to capture this sunrise in all its glory. Throughout history, many writers and poets have described and praised this incredible phenomenon. Their words are like pearls strung together. I dare not attempt to write, but in the face of this extraordinary sight, I was moved by the innate sense of beauty within us humans. I couldn't resist the urge to express my feelings with a simple poem:

"The rolling mists in the myriad peaks churn and stretch endlessly, wildflowers scenting the air when the wind arrives.
Deep and vast is this high and cold realm, as the rising sun emerges from the eastern horizon."

We lingered until the sun had reached the sky, only then did we return to freshen up. Mr. Li had prepared a sumptuous breakfast for us. At seven o'clock, Mr. Wen, Mr. Zhuang, and Teo Kwang left together in a car. Seah Boey, Foong Moi, Lih Juin, and I traveled in Mr. Li's private car. At eight-thirty, we arrived at a very humble hotel in Malang, where we reunited with the six of them. Ze Gong had already prepared lunch for us, and we set off immediately to paint in Nelijep, South Sea.

Along the way, there were many winding roads, and on both sides, there were teak trees. They said that these teak trees, once planted, could be harvested in just ten years. In the past, they were mostly managed by Germans, but now they are state-owned. Because the teak tree-growing areas cannot exceed an altitude of six hundred meters above sea level, most of these teak plantations are located in the lowlands of Java, with few exceptions. The teak forests on the entire island cover an area of approximately seven thousand square kilometers and are an important forest resource of Java. In addition, there are forests of yellow poplar trees, with slender leaves and many branches, resembling ancient trees in Chinese paintings. When the wind blows, they rustle. In these undulating mountain roads, with the shade of green trees and a gentle breeze, driving was a pleasure, especially with the clear sunshine, making the journey even more enjoyable.

The sixty-kilometer journey was not short, but because we felt so content in our hearts, we arrived at the South Sea coast without realizing it. The car suddenly rushed downhill and stopped in front of a hotel. After unloading our belongings, we went to the beach to paint. This was a bay with cliffs on both sides, and the waves crashed against the shore like rolling thunder. Ancient vines clung to the rocks, and there were several ancient trees, standing alone with a towering and rugged appearance, as if they were defying the winds and reaching for the clouds. At noon, we had lunch at the hotel. After lunch, we walked eastward to the beach, about half a mile away, to paint. There was a solitary reef in front of the beach, surrounded by strange rocks. The sea breeze whipped up waves, and from around the reef, it surged to a height of several meters, emitting loud roars, continuously crashing and creating a breathtaking and awe-inspiring spectacle! The solitary reef was about three meters high and five meters wide, resembling a crouching lion, submerged in the thunderous waves, displaying a resolute and unyielding character!

At half-past seven, we returned to the Malang inn. Zhuang Zhanhui is a well-known painter in Malang. In order to show his hospitality, he specially invited us to a restaurant for dinner. He ordered a roasted chicken, a plate of steamed fish, and a plate of large prawns, all famous dishes in this area and delicious in taste. We couldn't help but eat heartily. After everyone had finished their meal, we originally planned to visit the works of local artists, but due to time constraints, we had to give up. However, we couldn't miss seeing Mr. Zhuang's paintings, so we went to appreciate them for inspiration. Mr. Zhuang is an amateur painter with a bold brushstroke and vibrant colors. His portraits are even more remarkable than his landscapes. His brushwork is fluent, his composition is rigorous, and he is heavily influenced by modern Chinese and Western painting. Although he is a businessman, apart from his shop, the back hall, warehouse, and stairs are all covered with his works, and even the upstairs corridors, living rooms, and bedrooms are filled with paintings. When we were deeply engrossed in viewing his paintings, Mrs. Zhuang arrived, and Fengmei, upon seeing her, exclaimed, 'Oh! You have a real talent, finding such a talented husband!'...

After leaving Mr. Zhuang's residence, we took advantage of our free time to ride in three-wheeled taxis and tour Malang City to observe its scenery. The streets here are spacious, and the city streets are clean, much like the city of Ipoh in Malaysia. The climate here is cool, with temperatures ranging around sixty-five degrees Fahrenheit. The scenery is beautiful, with lush trees, colorful flowers, and elegant pavilions and gardens everywhere. It is said that Malang and Bandung, both on the island of Java, are like Suzhou and Hangzhou in China; there is a saying: 'West Bandung, East Malang.' This shows the fame of both places.

To the east of Malang City, there is a mountain that is about 1,800 meters high, the highest mountain on the island of Java. We originally wanted to admire its majestic scenery, but due to time constraints and the long journey to the South Sea, we had to postpone the mountain visit for another time.

Because of Malang's excellent climate and beautiful scenery, all the major hotels have been rented out by government officials for a long time, leaving only the lowest-quality inns for travelers. Even though it was a low-quality inn, we had to trouble Mr. Zhuang to make a reservation for us five days in advance. Otherwise, we would have had no place to stay!!

The facilities in the inn were extremely basic, with not even a single sheet, let alone a blanket. The temperature dropped sharply in the middle of the night, and we shivered from the cold, unable to sleep. We had to get up and pace around the room until dawn.