印尼记遊（十一）
Travelogue in Indonesia 11

巴厘之游，费时旬⽇ ; ⾏路数百⾥，岩涧溪壑，⼭⾕丛林，平畴⽥舍，古庙⾼塔，凡有名胜古迹可观者，或为游⼈所欲到者，都经涉⾜。虽略显嫌时⽇倥偬，未能享尽「拨云寻古道，倚树听流泉」的闲适的⻛味，但亦已略认梗概，慰情聊胜於⽆了，若认为好⻛景总宜乎慢慢地欣赏，或要详细地观览，深⼊体察的话，則⾮五六⼗⽇不能完成此⾏。这豈是我们这些劳⼈所能梦想得到的呢？

我们此次能顺利地完成巴厘之游，实得⼒於谢春贵君，因在巴厘島上旅⾏，最难解决者乃是住宿与交通问题，我们由谢君之助，包了⼀辆巴⼠⻋，每⽇由晨七时⾄夜七时，仅花印尼币两千三百盾，谢君伉俪更放下事务，从百忙中抽空伴领我们到处去访古探幽，此⽚热诚的确是难能可贵。

⼗三⽇因昨夜滂沱⼤⾬，雷电交作，⼼恐回程受阻，忐忑不安，竟⾄⼀夜未得合眼，⾄三时，⾬势始稍弱，四时即起床，收恰⾏装。来时，每⼈仅⼀⽪箧，归时卻增加了不少的收获。谢君有⻅及此，早替我们备⼀⽵筐。五时许，谢君伉俪已⾄。在这天⽓晦暗，淫兩绵绵的⼀⼤清早，本是⼈们辗转梦途，最甜怡， 最浓适的良时，除了我们是「不得已」之外，他们竟也牺牲了这份酣眠的享受，趕着来送⾏。我们得向他们深申谢意的！

六时，⾬已霁，驱⻋离开丹巴刹，向⻄驰⾏。⼀声「再会 ！別了！.巴厘 ！他⽇重临为期渺茫啊 !」回顾两三⽇来，因等待⻜机座位⽽觉⼼焦，现在⼀旦离去，⼼⾥却⼜有⽆限依依恋恋之感 !是时，晨曦微明。远近村落，朝烟弥漫，清⻛迎⼈，我使感到⼀阵新鲜轻畅的酣适。在这晨雾中，⼀切景物，都是那么迷离恍惚，使我们好像⾛进⼀幅⽔晕墨染的⼭⽔画中。娇阳出来了，⼀抹弱晖，射透秾林，照进⻋厢，煞是爱⼈。路旁之景物，亦渐清楚。所映⼊眼帘的，尽是连绵的⼭⾕，湾曲的流⽔，苍郁的树⽊，以及丛林⼭野中的⼀个个村落。男男⼥⼥，早已在晨光曦微中，⾟勤地开始他们的劳作了。移顷，路旁忽⻅许多妇⼥，她们⼀⼿挽着⼩篮，⼀⼿携着孩⼦，头上还负载重筐，每联⼗数⼈⼀队，悠然⾃得地从我们的⻋边擦过。我疑问谢君：「她们⼀清早到那⾥去？」谢君说 ：「她们是到巴剎去赶集的，出卖⾃⼰的产物⽽換回⽇常⽤品。⼋时还得赶回家⾥下⽥耕种呢！」「啊！巴厘⼈
民实在是勤劳呀！」我赞美着。

七时许，我们经达巴南 Jalanan —— 古皇宮之所在地 —— 果然看⻅许多妇⼥，三三兩兩地多从市镇回家，她们头上所顶负的⼤⽵筐已空罄，⼿上却多提了些东⻄。在这⼭村的早市确是热闹啊！但⼀过九时，就死寂沉静下来了。我们沿着⻄巴厘的公路奔驰，⼋时经⼘律干 Pulukan，再⼀⼩时⾄尼加拉 Negara。抵达巴厘最⻄端的⼀个村镇 Gilimanuk 时，已近⼗时了。这是我们此程的终境地点。计程约⼀百余哩。下⻋后，谢太太忙着为我们买船票，谢君替我们办理过关⼿续，在关卡⾥逗留了⼀点多钟，才把⼿续办妥，登船渡过巴厘海峡，对岸就是⽖哇岛了。

谢君伉俪唯恐我们⾔语不通，找不到赴泗⽔的汽⻋，竟伴送着我们过江⾄⽖哇岛东岸的巴株万宜 Banjurvangi。我们搭的是汽船，另有⼀种张帆的渡船。船之头尾兩旁，均横以⼀条⻓⽊杆，杆之两旁各系⼀浮筒，骤然视之 ，宛如⼀只伸张四肢的⻘蛙，浮在海⾯上。我们坐在船上，远望着⽖哇岛上重重郁郁的⼭峦。谢君并向我讲述了许多有关於这些⼭峰的神话。半⼩时光景，船已靠岸。上落船只真⿇烦 ，丽君的⽪箧即⼤⼜重，谢君提着⾛上踏板时，⼀下傾斜，竟连⼈跌到海⾥去了。好在海滩⽔浅，否則，后果真不堪设想呢！

到达彼岸，提着⾏李，还得步⾏⼀段⻓路，⼤家都⾟苦得⽓喘吁吁了。这⾥的⽓候⽐巴厘热得多，⼜是正午时候，炎热熏⼈，汗流浃背。这⾥⼜沒有地⽅可供吃喝，⻋⼜雇不到，真是苦死了。好不容易的，谢君找到⼀家卖汽⽔的⼩店，我们才得以⼩憩。

接着谢太太忙着去找⻋，我们轮流着看管⾏李。这⾥的扒⼿，本领的是⾼強的，幸⽽我们早已得到关照：「泗⽔不⽐巴厘，扒⼿多，要提防」因此，我们早將袋⾥的物件完全清理，我为了脸上流汗过多，把眼镜除下，暂放在⾐袋⾥，只⻅⼈群⼀挤，我的眼镜就不翼⽽⻜了。这下⼦可真糟透！眼前只呈现⼀⽚模糊！谢君说：「到泗⽔，就可以配得到！」我才稍微放下⼼来。⻋来了，由巴株万宜⾄泗⽔三百廿⾥的路程，本来⻋费祗需三千盾就⾜够，但因今天到了⼤批⽇本旅客，兩辆游⻋全被租去，所以竟涨⾄五千盾，连⾃丹巴剎⾄⼏⾥曼诺，⼀程兩千盾，共花去旅费七千余盾，竟⽐乘⻜机还昂贵呢！⼗⼆时半，由巴株万宜起程，我们就在⻋窗⾥向谢君伉俪摆⼿道声再⻅。⼗天来，⼤家早晚共⼀处，今⽇⼜蒙他们相送⼀程，异地之浓厚友情，重可感已。

汽⻋就此匆匆地向⻄驰骋着，⼆时抵达锡度⽂都 Situbondo 。因觉枵腹鸣雷，⼤家赞成在此⼩镇觅⼀餐馆进⾷，离星后，今⽇第⼀次尝到中国⻛味的⾯⾷，吃来颇有味道。

餐后，登⻋⽽进，此程路⾯⽐巴厘岛上略为平坦⼲阔，公路两旁，古⽊参天，排列成⾏，槎⽛交错，翡翠可爱！⻋⾏其间，如置⾝⻛景⽚⾥，真是另有⼀番⻛味！

须臾，⻋⼊⽥间，井然的陇亩，⼀碧⽆际，⽲苗怒发，咸有⽣⽓。农作物以⽶⾕、蔬菜为主。还有⻘苗苗的⽢蔗，触⺫皆是，沿路所看到的，⼤约⽲⽥占⼗分之六，蔗⽥占⼗分之四。⽥间更置有轻便铁轨。蔗⽥中⼯⼈⾟勤地操作，有的持锄收获，有的捆扎成束，装⼟机⻋，运往⼯⼚。据说：⽖哇岛上蔗园总⾯积，计有四⼗五万⼋千余英亩，糖产占世界第三位。⼤概⻄起井⾥汶 Cheribon 东⾄三宝珑 Semarang 之间，⽕⼭脈以北之地，皆宜种植⽢蔗。⽖哇岛最重要的蔗⽥，多在布兰达河流域及梭罗、⽇惹⼀带。

⼀路上经过不少的市镇与⼭村，每处都有⼀个⼟名字，我已不复记忆。俟暮⾊苍茫，⼤地混沌，始抵达泗⽔。⼗多个钟头在路上不停地奔驰，已达精疲⼒尽之境。我们按址去拜访李泽恭先⽣。询问之下，⽅知李君为了要接我们的⻜机，已与⻢兰来的⼏位朋友，⼀同到他的別墅去了。我们⼜即刻驱⻋到 Tretes 李⽒⼭莊去。到达时已是九点了。四百余⾥的⻓征，於此才告⼀段落。晚餐后，与李君，温君、庄君倾谈⾄⼗⼆时始相率就寝。因劳顿了⼀天，⾝倦神疲，不⼀会酣然就⼊眠了。 （⼗⼀）

A trip to Bali, lasting for a fortnight, covering hundreds of miles of roads, traversing rocky gorges, streams, mountain forests, plains with fields and houses, ancient temples and tall towers. All the famous and historic places worth visiting, sought after by travelers, were explored on foot. Although it may seem a bit rushed, not allowing us to fully enjoy the leisurely experience of "seeking ancient paths through the clouds, leaning against trees to listen to flowing streams," we still managed to get a rough idea and found solace in it. If one wishes to truly appreciate the beauty or wants a detailed observation, immersing themselves deeply, it would take more than ten days, perhaps even fifteen or sixteen. Isn't this beyond the dreams of those of us who toil day by day?

Our successful completion of the trip to Bali was greatly attributed to Mr. Xie Chungui. When traveling in Bali, the most challenging issues to address are accommodation and transportation. With Mr. Xie's assistance, we managed to secure a minibus for our daily use, from 7 in the morning until 7 at night, at the reasonable rate of only 2,300 Indonesian Rupiahs. Mr. and Mrs. Xie even took time out of their busy schedules to accompany us in exploring the ancient sites, which was indeed precious.

On the thirteenth day, due to heavy rain and thunderstorms the previous night, we were worried about potential travel disruptions on our return journey. We couldn't sleep the whole night, anxiously waiting. Around 3 a.m., the weather began to improve slightly, and by 4 a.m., we decided to get up and pack our belongings. When we first arrived, each of us only had a small suitcase, but on the return journey, we had acquired quite a few items. Mr. Xie foresaw this and had prepared an additional basket for us. Around 5 a.m., Mr. and Mrs. Xie arrived. It was a gloomy and rainy morning, far from ideal. Most people would be enjoying the sweetest and most restful moments in their dreams at this hour. Yet, Mr. and Mrs. Xie sacrificed their sleep to come and send us off. We were deeply grateful to them.

At 6 a.m., with the rain clearing, we departed from Denpasar and headed westward. With a heartfelt "Goodbye, Bali! Until we meet again, though the prospect is distant!" we looked back at the past two or three days. While we had been anxious about securing plane seats during our stay, as we were leaving, our hearts were filled with an endless sense of attachment and nostalgia. At that moment, the dawn was breaking, with villages in the distance, morning mist filling the air, and a refreshing breeze welcoming us. In this morning mist, everything seemed ethereal and dreamlike, as if we had walked into a landscape painting of mountains and water. The gentle sunlight pierced through the trees and illuminated our carriage, creating a picturesque scene. Along the road, we saw continuous mountain ranges, winding rivers, lush trees, and villages nestled in the jungle and mountains. Men and women had already begun their work diligently in the faint morning light. As we continued, we suddenly spotted many women by the roadside. They were carrying small baskets in one hand, holding their children in the other, and balancing heavy baskets on their heads. They walked past our carriage in a relaxed and unhurried manner. I asked Mr. Xie, "Where are they going so early in the morning?" Mr. Xie replied, "They are going to the market to sell their produce and exchange them for daily necessities. They will need to return home by 8 a.m. to work in their fields!" I exclaimed, "Ah! The people of Bali are indeed diligent!"

Around 7 o'clock, as we passed through Dabanang Jalanan, the location of the ancient palace, we indeed saw many women, in groups of three or two, returning home from the market. The large baskets they had balanced on their heads were now empty, and they carried various goods in their hands. The morning market in this mountain village was bustling! However, after 9 o'clock, it became quiet and still. We continued our journey along the western roads of Bali, passing Pulukan at 8 o'clock and arriving in Negara an hour later. When we reached the village of Gilimanuk, at the westernmost tip of Bali, it was already close to 10 o'clock. This was the end point of our journey, covering a distance of approximately a hundred miles. After disembarking, Mrs. Xie busied herself buying boat tickets for us, and Mr. Xie helped us with customs procedures. We spent over an hour at the checkpoint before completing the formalities. Once this was done, we boarded the boat to cross the Bali Strait, and on the other side was the island of Java.

Mr. and Mrs. Xie were worried that we might have trouble communicating and finding transportation to Sukapura, so they accompanied us across the river to Banjurvangi on the east coast of Java. We took a motorboat, while there was another type of sailboat available. The boat had long wooden poles attached horizontally at both ends, with floating drums on each side, resembling a frog stretching its limbs floating on the sea. As we sat on the boat, we looked far out at the numerous mountain ranges on Java Island. Mr. Xie shared many myths and stories about these peaks with me. After half an hour, the boat arrived at the shore. Disembarking was quite a hassle, especially since Lijun's suitcase was large and heavy. When Mr. Xie stepped onto the gangplank carrying it, the boat tilted, and he nearly fell into the sea. Fortunately, the water at the beach was shallow; otherwise, the consequences could have been unimaginable.

Upon reaching the other side, we had to walk a long distance carrying our luggage. Everyone was out of breath and struggling. The weather here was much hotter than in Bali, and it was the scorching noon sun that made us sweat profusely. There were no places to eat or drink, and we couldn't find any transportation. It was truly tough. After some effort, Mr. Xie found a small shop that sold bottled water, allowing us to take a short break.

Next, Mrs. Xie set out to find a vehicle while we took turns looking after our luggage. Pickpockets here were notorious for their skills, and luckily, we had been warned: "Sukapura is not like Bali; there are many pickpockets, so be careful." As a precaution, we had already emptied our bags completely. Due to excessive sweating on my face, I had taken off my glasses and temporarily placed them in my handbag. However, in the crowded place, my glasses mysteriously disappeared. This was quite a predicament! Everything before me was blurry. Mr. Xie said, "You can get a new pair in Sukapura!" I felt a bit relieved. The vehicle arrived, and the journey from Banjurvangi to Sukapura, which was about 320 miles, should have cost only 3,000 Rupiahs. However, due to the large number of Japanese tourists that day, all the tour buses were rented out, and the price had surged to 5,000 Rupiahs. The entire trip from Denpasar to Seminomura, which had originally cost 2,000 Rupiahs, now totaled over 7,000 Rupiahs, making it even more expensive than taking a plane! At 12:30, we left Banjurvangi, and as we waved to Mr. and Mrs. Xie through the car window, we felt the deep and sincere friendship that had developed over the past ten days. Today, they accompanied us for a part of our journey, and their strong bond of friendship was truly moving.

The car continued to race westward, and by 2 o'clock, we arrived in Situbondo. Feeling hungry, we all agreed to find a restaurant in this small town to have a meal. Later in the evening, we tasted Chinese-style noodles for the first time on this trip, which was quite flavourful.

After the meal, we got back into the car. The roads on this part of the journey were slightly flatter and broader than those on Bali. Ancient trees lined both sides of the road, standing in rows, their branches intermingling like a charming emerald tapestry. As we drove through this landscape, it felt like we had stepped into a scene from a movie, offering a different kind of beauty.

Before long, we entered the farmlands, a vast expanse of green with rice fields stretching endlessly. The crops mainly consisted of rice and vegetables. There were also lush sugarcane fields as far as the eye could see. Along the way, it seemed that about 60% of the land was dedicated to rice, while sugarcane occupied the remaining 40%. Lightweight railway tracks were even laid through some of these fields. Workers in the sugarcane fields were busy at work, some harvesting with hoes, and others bundling the cane into stacks, ready to be transported to the factories. It's said that the total sugarcane plantation area on Java Island is approximately 45,000 acres, and its sugar production ranks third in the world. The region north of the mountains, from Cheribon in the west to Semarang in the east, is suitable for sugarcane cultivation. The most significant sugarcane plantations in Java are located around the Brantas River basin, Solo, and Yogyakarta.

We passed through several towns and mountain villages along the way, but I no longer remember their names. It wasn't until dusk, with the landscape shrouded in a hazy blue, that we finally arrived in Sukapura. After more than ten hours of continuous travel, we were utterly exhausted. We inquired about Mr. Li Zegong's whereabouts. We learned that Mr. Li had gone to his villa with some friends from Malang to pick us up for our flight. So, we immediately drove to Tretes, Mr. Li's villa. It was already 9 o'clock when we arrived. The journey of over 400 miles had finally come to an end. After dinner, we chatted with Mr. Li, Mr. Wen, and Mr. Zhuan until around midnight, after which we retired to rest. Due to the exhaustion of the day's travels, our bodies were weary, and we fell asleep in no time.