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印尼记遊(六)
Travelogue in Indonesia 06

象洞 Ygoagadja
Elephant Cave Goa Gajah

四月八日,今天我们游览两处的名胜地方,首先到 Bedulu去参观象洞,然后再到巴厘北部的Kintamani 去看火山。

早上八时,我们包了一辆巴士,带了三个模特儿由丹巴刹 Den Passar 出发。⻋行两小时光景,抵达象洞 Ygoagadja。一路上看不尽的丛林幽谷,引人入胜。 山路逶迤,⻋子由山麓迂曲盘旋而上,在一高原上停下来。 我们全体画侣徒步向下坡走去,下临深壑,毛骨为之悚然。半山上有一水池,四面全是三合土构成 ,深约十尺。池的四周有许多雕像,利用泉水的流动,使水从雕像口喷出,注入池中。水色澄碧晶莹,可供当地村民沐浴。
象洞是在水池北面之山壁上,高约三丈,旁有各种石像,雕刻极精致古雅而生动。洞内幽黑莫测其深,洞⻔高约八尺,依石之大小刻上花纹,洞顶刻一石神——象神,巨口大眼,旁有巨掌,状颇伟奇,是为印尼典型面像之一。周围佛塔,古树矗立於阳光之中,动人无限美感,不论由那一个⻆度看来,都是一幅非常精彩的画
面。子平、金裕、丕才、庆光均作油画,我则画粉画。至十一时半,我们又续程出发,目的地是火山 Gunang Batur Kintamani。自Bedulu 向北驰行,所经山丛中;茂林繁密,旷野田畴,碧溪村落,另 是一番美景。⻋子驶上山路了,登山愈高, 则气候愈寒,环山背皆峰峦,山岚弥漫。我们相续下⻋, 一登山巅, 则山色峦光之美,益⻅丰富了。对於四周的景物有全盘的眼福。遥望对面山头,还可以看到袅袅火烟,从火山口冒升起来。这火山是在二十年前爆发过的,那熔岩的地方均呈黑色,顶上多已生草,山下反而不生草木。火山口犹呈红色,比我们站的地方更高。火山的右边有一泓清碧的湖水, 透出一种诗样的柔和的美。湖的面积相当大,受山屏的围绕,山影倒投湖中,景色绝妙。仰视天空白云冉冉而来,真有驾雾腾云飛然欲仙之慨!

附近村民每⻅有游客到来,从山中采摘野生水果向游客兜售,几个「卢比」就可买到一大篮的果子, 折合起叻币不过几分钱,所以尽管果味酸涩,我们也买了几大篮。我们一面欣赏奇景,一面吃午饭, 揽胜既竟,肚子又填饱,就忙於作画了。子平一个人在来一幅油画,我画了三蝠粉画。

下午四时回程抵巴厘旅馆后,即到市街闲游,略购土产。城梅认为我买的东⻄属均上乘,邀我至古董店给她帮帮眼。值得买东⻄实在是太多了,大家都变成了一个豪爽阔绰的游客,城梅己用罄八万盾, 子平也已用去二万盾,我最节省,仅花去一万二盾,其余各位也多在二万盾以上,出了店⻔,返至旅舍,用过晚膳既睡。 (六)

On April 8th, today we visited two famous places, first we went to Bedulu to visit the Elephant Cave, and then we went to see the volcano in the northern part of Bali, Kintamani.

At eight in the morning, we hired a bus and brought along three models from Den Passar. We traveled for about two hours and arrived at the Elephant Cave, Ygoagadja. Along the way, we saw enchanting jungles and valleys, truly captivating. The mountain road was winding, and the bus climbed from the foot of the mountain to a plateau. We, the group of artists, walked down a steep slope, which overlooked a deep ravine and sent shivers down our spines. Halfway up the mountain, there was a pool, about ten feet deep, constructed entirely of earthen walls. Around the pool, there were many sculptures, and with the flow of spring water, it spouted from the mouths of the statues into the pool. The water was crystal clear, and the local villagers used it for bathing.

The Elephant Cave was located on the northern mountain wall of the pool, about three meters high, with various stone statues around it, finely carved and full of ancient elegance. The cave was dark and mysterious, and the entrance was about eight feet high, with patterns carved into the stone. At the top of the cave, there was a stone deity - an elephant god, with a huge mouth and eyes, and giant hands, truly magnificent and one of the typical Indonesian facial expressions. Surrounding it were Buddhist stupas and ancient trees, standing in the sunlight, exuding infinite beauty. Regardless of the angle from which you viewed it, it was an incredibly splendid scene. Tze Peng, Kim Joo, Phee Chye and Keng Kwang, all painted with oils, while I painted with pastels. By half-past eleven, we continued our journey to Gunang Batur Kintamani, the volcano. We drove north from Bedulu, passing through lush forests, vast fields, and picturesque villages. As we ascended, the climate became colder, and the mountains surrounded us with their peaks and mist.

We all got off the bus and walked to the top of the mountain, where the beauty of the mountainous landscape was even richer. We had panoramic views of the surroundings. Looking at the opposite mountain peak, we could still see wisps of smoke rising from the volcano's crater. This volcano had erupted twenty years ago, and the lava areas were black, with grass now growing on the summit. However, there was no vegetation at the foot of the mountain. The volcano's crater still emitted a red glow, higher than where we stood. To the right of the volcano, there was a clear blue lake, surrounded by mountain ridges, creating a peaceful and poetic beauty. Looking up, white clouds drifted slowly, giving the impression of ascending to the heavens.

Local villagers gathered whenever they saw tourists arriving, selling wild fruits they had picked in the mountains. For just a few rupees, you could buy a large basket of fruits, equivalent to just a few cents in Indonesian currency. Despite the sour taste of the fruits, we bought several large baskets. We enjoyed the breathtaking views, had lunch, and then began painting. Zhiping painted an oil painting, and I painted three pastel paintings.

After returning to the Bali Hotel at four o'clock in the afternoon, we strolled through the streets and bought some local products. Seah Boey thought that what I bought was all of excellent quality and invited me to help her at an antique shop. There were so many worthwhile items to buy, and everyone turned into generous and extravagant tourists. Seah Boey had already spent 80,000 rupiahs, Tze Peng had spent 20,000 rupiahs, and I was the most frugal, spending only 12,000 rupiahs. The others had also spent over 20,000 rupiahs. After leaving the shop, we returned to the inn, had dinner, and went to sleep.

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