印尼记遊（二十）
Travelogue in Indonesia 20

日惹是爪哇的古都，故其足以凭吊追寻古迹，俯拾即是，这里的一切景物，似乎都浸润在静穆的空气中，充满了历史的意味，更给这古都渲染上了一层庄严朴素的色彩，仅以那婆罗浮屠的伟构，拉拉庄格陵兰庙的古雅，已足以令人循览抵徊，发其清省了。

所以我说：日惹本身就是一幅色彩古朴，气韵凝炼的写实壁画；就是一首格律严谨，音调浑雄的古典派史诗！我等因旅程倥忽，仅能在此逗留兩天，致未能将所有的古迹，一一详加瞻览，但愿我生有幸，不难再至这爪哇的文化中心地來，再拓襟怀！

十九晨，乃一清逆旅之值，准备起程赴万隆Bandung，承佐君之美意，特派來学生十八名，为我们整顿行裝，因行李渐次增多，则将一部分之画纸与画布，赠予佐君，並蒙美专的一部分师生至⻋站送行，热情盛意殊令我们铭感不已!今日幸得他们之助，否则，我们真不知将如何才能带著这一大堆的行李，挤入这水洩不通的火⻋站！

九时正：汽笛一声响，我们就在依恋不舍中，与这古城及热情的友人，致其最后惜別之意。火⻋开始由日惹蠕动了。

⻋厢里的乘客，拥挤不堪，扰攘之状，触⺫咸是。我们十二人，刚好坐滿一截的头等⻋厢，倒也舒适！据云：「爪哇军人极蛮横，在火⻋上，你休想可以坐得安稳!」但若以今日之事实证明，恰正相反。 军人们全企立於⻋廂外，虽偶而穿过通道，亦与我们秋毫无犯！

火⻋沿著轨道渐加速度前进，时而过桥梁，时而穿山洞。在⻋窗眺赏着，但⻅兩旁树木、田园，不绝地往后退移。景致却随着⻋行速度而改变，片刻间竟换了无数的画面，宛如展开一幅山水画卷，愈展愈奇妙······。

⻋行一小时后，速度渐次減低，⻋头不停地怒吼着，似乎显得气喘吁吁的样子。我探首外望，只⻅岗峦起伏，地势渐高，⻋行其上，蜿蜓如⻓蛇之阵。有几处架空铁桥， 峻峭险阻之势，真真不可卒视！抵达万达遮 Banduar 时，地势更高，於是前后各一個火⻋头，一拉一推才能把長列的車廂，缓慢地推拖着前进。由日惹至万隆这一段路程，最为崎岖难行。若较之吉隆坡至文冬路这一段，其山岭的险峻，道路的回环，实有过之而无不及!⻋在支巴株 Jlibatu 站停了。其时站里停了许多巡逻⻋，雨势又很大，所以我们未能下⻋一溜。约十五分钟后，⻋复开行。经过干特隧道 G.Guntur，我们竟像被埋入荒山深谷中一样，那隆隆之⻋声，有如天崩地裂，震耳欲聋！

⻋廂里全是自己人，一路上嘻嘻哈哈的，倒是蛮开心！凤美因支持不了臭虫的骚扰，竟接连換了三四次座位，她还现身说法地指给大家看。丕才说：「臭虫是比较喜欢女人的」凤美很不服气地说：「难道臭虫咬人还要先判分性別吗？」惹得大家一阵笑。丽君却睡得正酣熟，头部一直往下垂，等到垂至六寸度角时，又猛然地坐直，但不过几分钟，又照样演一次。金裕抓紧了这画面，拼命地速写，并且更夸张表现。因此惹得大家又轰然地大笑一阵。丽君在我们的笑声中遽然而醒，当她发现金裕在描画她的时候，就掏出手巾來把脸孔蒙上。这一來，几个攝影手又一阵忙了，丽君无法再睡，只好大骂金裕，这样吵吵闹闹，途中颇不寂寞!抵达万隆⻋站，已是下午二时。

下了⻋，温君说：「恭喜你们」我们都莫名其妙，到底喜从何来？他说：「你们在支巴株站不是看到许多巡逻⻋吗？那是最多事的地方，许多旅客经此，不但行程受阻，有时还因株连而受拘呢！因此许多人宁愿花一整日的时间，走那崎岖曲折的公路到万隆，而不敢以五小时的路程搭火⻋至此!」好在温君通气，不会先把这秘密泄漏，否则， 我们一路上將惴惴不安。尤其是子平，恐怕要先在日惹购买 了人寿保险，然后才一路发抖着到万隆呢！（二十）

Yogyakarta is an ancient city in Java, and it is rich in historical sites that are readily accessible. Everything in this place seems to be immersed in a serene atmosphere, filled with the essence of history. It adds a layer of solemn simplicity to this ancient city. The grandeur of Borobudur and the elegance of Lara Djonggrang temple alone are enough to make one linger, appreciating the simplicity.

Therefore, I would say that Yogyakarta itself is like a realistic mural painted in subdued colors, drenched in the essence of history. It is like a classical epic poem with strict rhythms and deep tones. Due to the brevity of our journey, we could only stay here for two days, and we were unable to thoroughly explore all the historical sites. I hope that in my lifetime, I will have the opportunity to return to this cultural center of Java and expand my horizons further.

On the 19th morning, with the clear light of a new day, we prepared to depart for Bandung. Thanks to the kind arrangement of Mr. Wen, 18 students were sent to help us pack our luggage. As our luggage gradually increased, we decided to give some of our drawing paper and canvas to Mr. Wen as a gift. Part of the teachers and students from the Fine Arts School also accompanied us to the train station and their warm and enthusiastic farewell left us deeply touched. We could not have managed to squeeze our large pile of luggage into the crowded train station without their help.

At exactly 9 o'clock, the train whistle sounded, and with a sense of reluctance, we bid farewell to this ancient city and our friendly companions. The train slowly started moving away from Yogyakarta.

The passengers inside the train car were cramped and the atmosphere was chaotic, as one would expect. Fortunately, there were exactly twelve of us, and we occupied an entire section of the first-class carriage, making our journey quite comfortable! It is said that the Javanese soldiers can be very unruly, and you cannot expect a peaceful journey on the train. However, today's experience proved the opposite. The soldiers stood outside the carriage, and even when they occasionally passed through the aisle, they did not bother us in the slightest!

The train gradually accelerated along the tracks, passing over bridges and through tunnels. Looking out of the train window, I saw trees and fields on both sides steadily receding. The scenery changed with the speed of the train, transforming in moments like an unfolding landscape painting, becoming more and more marvelous...

After an hour of traveling, the train's speed gradually decreased, and the engine seemed to be huffing and puffing. As I looked out, I saw rolling hills and the terrain growing higher. The train snaked its way up the ascending path like a long serpent. There were several elevated iron bridges, and the steepness of the terrain was truly daunting. When we reached Bandung, the terrain was even higher, so two locomotives, one in the front and one in the back, had to work together to pull the long line of carriages slowly forward. The journey from Yogyakarta to Bandung was the most rugged and challenging part of the trip. Compared to the segment from Kuala Lumpur to Bentong, the steepness of the mountains and the winding roads here were even more intense! The train stopped at Jlibatu station. At that time, there were many patrol cars at the station, and it was pouring rain, so we couldn't get off the train. After about fifteen minutes, the train resumed its journey. Passing through the G.Guntur tunnel, we felt as if we were buried in a deep valley of barren mountains. The thunderous sound of the train was deafening!

The carriage was filled with our own people, and everyone was in a cheerful mood throughout the journey. However, Foong Moi couldn't stand the harassment of bedbugs and changed her seat three or four times in a row. She even demonstrated to everyone how the bedbugs had bitten her. Phee Chye commented, 'Bedbugs seem to prefer women.' Foong Moi retorted indignantly, 'Do bedbugs have to determine gender before they bite?' This remark sent everyone into fits of laughter. Lih Juin, on the other hand, was fast asleep with her head hanging down. When her head reached an angle of about six inches from the vertical, she suddenly sat up, but after just a few minutes, she repeated the same sequence. Kim Joo captured this scene and exaggerated it in a sketch, causing everyone to burst into laughter again. Lih Juin woke up abruptly amid our laughter, and when she saw Kim Joo drawing her, she covered her face with a handkerchief. This prompted several photographers to get busy again, and Lih Juin, unable to sleep anymore, could only scold Kim Joo. The journey was far from quiet with all the noise and commotion! We arrived at Bandung station at around 2 PM.

After getting off the train, Mr. Wen said, 'Congratulations to all of you.' We were all puzzled, wondering what there was to be congratulated about. He explained, 'Didn't you see all the patrol cars at Jlibatu station? That's the most troublesome place. Many passengers traveling through there not only face disruptions in their journeys but sometimes even get detained due to guilt by association! That's why many people would rather spend an entire day traveling the rugged and winding road to Bandung than risk taking a five-hour train ride here!' Thankfully, Mr. Wen had informed the authorities, so they didn't reveal this secret in advance. Otherwise, we would have been anxious throughout the journey. Especially Tze Peng, who might have had to purchase life insurance in Yogyakarta before trembling all the way to Bandung!