印尼记遊（廿二）
Travelogue in Indonesia

万隆的⻛景线确是引人留恋赞美的。我们凭高处俯瞰全市，但⻅林立的商肆，连云的屋宇，尽掩映在绿树浓荫之中，那灿烂的景色，温涼的气候，使人几疑置身在万紫千红的花园里，而忘卸了此身是在一个繁荣的都市中。大概因山林灵水秀之故，万隆人的仪表生得非常俊秀，性情也很婉厚。尤其是女人，皮肤白嫩，容颜妩媚，体态轻盈，与其他各地之黝黑⻢来民族，判若天渊，万隆虽是仅次於椰城的大都会，但她沒有都市的奢气，也沒有乡村的泥息，她在朴素中呈现着鲜丽，在优雅中呈现出活泼，真不愧是人间的乐园，印尼的花都啊！

昨晚，⻩君为了招待我们，特地购置了几床新垫褥，俾使我们能在这高寒地，暖衾窝里睡得酣适无比，度过了半月來最憩畅的一夜。及至⻩粱梦醒，已是日上三竿了。

今日的行程是到玛里巴也 Marilaja 瀑布去写生。这是万隆鼎鼎有名的游览胜地， 路程既近，交东通又便，一无行旅之苦，故此胜迹⻛光是沒有一天无人玩赏或探幽的。所谓「游屐如云」确是最妥实的写照！

这是自我们到印尼以来，第三次所⻅到的瀑布。若以实琅干、特里的士二瀑较之， 其幽邃秀美实不相让;而博大，高深，曲险则远过之。前二者因地处僻隅，交通不便， 故旅游人士游踪罕至，恐知之者亦复寥寥无几呢!此瀑不独天然之美，且加上人工之修饰，颇有园林⻛景之致!瀑布，虽亦由溪流汇成，但每节泻为虽亦由溪流汇成，但每节泻为潭，潭复泻为瀑，如是者有三叠。溪流蜿蜓而下，曲折之处，小桥跨之;高丘之上，草亭翼然，深潭之间， 刻有大虾蟆以点缀。四周草木繁茂，山花艳发，怪石林立。那小桥、流水、楼台、红花、绿草 、悬崖；都佈置得极妥贴。这清幽的境地，绝伦的景色，真足移陶醉你那沉闷疲倦的身心！

在瀑布上源还沿崖辟路，凿石作栏。我们可以倚在栏上观瀑，或听着那涧涯中水声的溅激。也可以順着石径，或拾着错轮乱的山径，以上穷瀑源，下探坡尾。其妙处真层出不穷，我们就在这幽美的林泉中，低头作画 ，殊为快意，中午在园里的一间餐室用膳，仅费一百五十盾已把肚子填得很饱了。尤其是那盘肥美香腻的烧鸡，现在回想起來，犹绝齿颊留香呢！

我的画兴特浓，一连勾了十几幅画稿，最后再作一水彩画。许多同伴都提议到附近享受温泉浴。一提起温泉浴，不禁想起我的故乡——福州温泉浴，那真是首屈一指的享受啊！自南来后，二十余年无日 不在魂梦萦绕中。现在这里既有汤池的设备，无论如何总得洗一下以聊慰相思了。

汤池浴室是一排列五间的平房，平房外尽是热气腾腾的清泉，硫磺气味甚大，每池大概十二尺⻅方， 深约五尺。池底及四围均砌以白瓷砖，非常清洁。每汤池裝有水⻰头二:一冷一热，水的温度高热烫手，必须以泠水调节，不然热气熏蒸，人受不了。我来时，浴室已宣告客满，为了时间经济，只好与庆光同浴一室了。我们在池里泡浸了一小时，全身皮肤通红，擦洗得通体舒服，寒气全消，其妙处殆不可言喻也。不过因近來体力消耗，睡眠不足，所以浴后也就格外疲惫了。难怪白居易的⻓恨歌里描述：「侍儿扶起娇无力，一枝梨花春带雨。」真是写实不过的。 (二十二)

The scenic beauty of Bandung is truly enchanting and worthy of praise. As we gazed down upon the city from a high vantage point, we saw rows of shops and houses nestled amidst lush greenery. The splendid view, combined with the cool climate, gave the impression of being in a vibrant garden, making one forget that they were in a bustling urban area. Perhaps it's the influence of the serene natural surroundings, but the people of Bandung are exceptionally good-looking, and their disposition is gentle. In particular, the women have fair, delicate skin, exquisite features, and graceful figures, setting them apart from the darker-skinned indigenous people found elsewhere. Bandung, while being second only to Batavia in size, lacks the extravagance of a metropolis and the rustic simplicity of the countryside. Instead, it presents a blend of simplicity and elegance, truly deserving the title of the "Garden City" of Indonesia.

Last night, Mr. Huang went out of his way to buy new mattresses for us, ensuring that we could sleep comfortably and warmly in this chilly highland. It was the most refreshing night's sleep we've had in the past two weeks. When Mr. Huang woke us up, it was already past noon.

Today's itinerary took us to the Marilaja Waterfall for sketching. This renowned tourist attraction in Bandung is conveniently located, with an easy and short journey, making it a favored destination for both locals and visitors. The saying "traveling is like a cloud" truly applies here!

This was the third waterfall we've seen since arriving in Indonesia. Compared to the Selanggun Waterfall and the Tjileurit Waterfall, Marilaja stands out with its deep serenity and exquisite beauty. It surpasses the former two in terms of size, height, and complexity. Since the previous two waterfalls were located in remote areas with limited accessibility, they were seldom visited by tourists, and only a handful of people knew about them. However, Marilaja's beauty is not just a result of nature; it has been further enhanced with some artificial landscaping, giving it the ambiance of a garden or park. The waterfall is created as the stream flows, cascading down in three tiers. The stream meanders, forming small bridges at winding points. Atop the hills, there are pavilions overlooking the scene, and in the deep pools below, there are sculpted giant toads adding to the charm. The surrounding area is lush with vegetation, vibrant with mountain flowers, and adorned with towering rocks. The small bridges, flowing water, pavilions, red flowers, green grass, and cliffs are all perfectly arranged. This serene setting and exceptional scenery are truly captivating and can rejuvenate even the weariest of souls!

Above the waterfall's source, there's a path along the cliff with stone railings, allowing us to lean on them while observing the waterfall or listening to the splashing of the water in the gorge. We can also follow the stone path or pick our way along the rugged mountain trails, either heading upstream towards the waterfall's origin or descending to the foot of the hill. The marvels seem endless, and we found great delight in sketching amidst this serene and beautiful landscape.

Around noon, we dined in a garden dining room, where a meal cost only 150 rupiahs, and it filled our bellies quite satisfactorily. Particularly memorable was the plate of succulent and fragrant roast chicken. Recalling it now, it still lingers on my taste buds!

My artistic inspiration was particularly strong, and I produced more than a dozen sketches in succession, finishing with a watercolor painting. Many of my companions suggested visiting the nearby hot springs for a relaxing bath. At the mention of hot springs, I couldn't help but think of my hometown—Fuzhou's hot springs, truly an unparalleled indulgence! Since coming from the south, for more than twenty years, not a day has passed without them lingering in my dreams. Now, here with the facilities for a hot spring bath, I felt it was only fitting to take one to soothe my homesickness.

The bathhouse consisted of five adjacent cottages, each surrounded by steaming hot springs, and the scent of sulfur was quite pronounced. Each bath was approximately twelve feet square and about five feet deep. The pool bottoms and surrounding areas were all paved with white tiles, meticulously clean. Each bath had two water taps: one for cold water and the other for scalding hot water. The hot water was so hot that it would scald your hand, and you had to mix it with cold water to reach a bearable temperature; otherwise, the steam was unbearable. When I arrived, the bathhouse was already full, and to save time, I had to share a room with Keng Kwang. We soaked in the pool for an hour, and our skin turned bright red. After scrubbing and cleansing, we felt incredibly comfortable, the chill in our bones disappeared, and the sensation was beyond words. However, due to recent physical exertion and lack of sleep, I felt exceptionally fatigued after the bath. It's no wonder that Bai Juyi described it well in his "Chang Hen Ge": "The attendants help her up, tender and weak; A pear blossom springs from her slender hand, moist with spring rain." It is indeed an accurate portrayal.